2009 DODGE CRAND CARAVAN | 180,000 KM
If I drive short trips (as I do now due to Covid) the check engine light does not trigger. When I drive for 30 - 40 minutes the check engine light triggers and using the THINKOBD 100 the following information is provided:
DTCs in this ECU: 1
P1404: EGR Close Position Performance
Freeze Frame Data:
DTCFRZF: P1404
FEULSYS1: CL
FUELSYS2: ---
LOAD_PCT: 29.4%
ECT: 98 C
SHRTFT1: -1.6%
LONGFT1: 7.8%
MAP: 31.0 kPa
RPM: 1111/min
VSS: 41 km/h
SPARKADV: 27.5
IAT: 33 C
TP: 14.1%
RUNTM; 1295 sec
EGR_PCT: 0.0%
EGR_ERR: 0.0%
EVAP_PCT: 45.5%
FLI: 42.7%
BARO: 99kPa
VPWR: 13.96V
LOAD_ABS: 20.8%
LAMBDA: 0.999
TP_R: 3.5%
AAT: 26 C
TP_B: 14.1%
APP_D: 8.6%
APP_E: 3.9%
TAC_PCT: 3.5%
Can I clean the EGR Valve?
Should I replace the EGR Valve? If replacing the EGR Valve (part via NAPA) I have two choices:
- EGR Valve | Part # : UNI 226809 | Product Line : NAPA Ignition / Fuel | $163.39
- EGR Valve | Part # : OES 6001654 | Product Line : Dorman OE Solutions | $143.39
Also, would I just need to replace the valve or do I need any other parts? On videos I see I need to remove a tube as well as the valve but I think I recall they always reuse the tube.
Any assistance would be appreciated. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you.
BTW: I purchased the THINKOBD 100 based on your review. As a newbie DIYer of mechanics I am still trying to figure out all the data that it is reporting but it is handy. I have not been able to figured out how to make use of the On Board Monitoring and the Bank1-Sensor 2 tests.
DodgeNissanSubaru
That's a monitor test DTC.
During certain driving parameters (probably why it doesn't happen on your short trips) the PCM performs an EGR monitor test.
In the PCM's adaptive memory it has recorded the voltage value for when the EGR valve is commanded completely closed. (Position 0%).
When running the EGR monitor test it commands the EGR valve completely closed and compares that voltage value to the recorded voltage value in its adaptive memory.
If the voltage values differ, the PCM commands the EGR valve to open all the way (Position 100%) to try to clear any carbon/soot in the valve that's preventing it from closing all the way and then commands the EGR to completely close again. If the voltage values still differ, it triggers the P1404.
You can clean the EGR valve, and to save $150 I would. I'll link Scotty's video on how to do that and even though yours looks different it's the same procedure.
If you decide to just clean it buy new gaskets for the EGR to head and EGR to tube connections.
Either way, if you decide to replace it or clean it, disconnect the negative battery cable before you start. By the time you're done that "adaptive memory" will be cleared (unfortunately so will your preset radio stations) and the PCM will record new values.
Remove:
1. Disconnect and isolate negative battery cable at battery.
2. Disconnect electrical connector (1) from exhaust gas recirculate (EGR) valve (5).
3. Remove bolts (3), gasket and EGR tube (3) from EGR valve (5).
4. Remove bolts (4), gasket and EGR valve (5) from cylinder head.
Install:
1. Install new EGR valve gasket to EGR valve.
2. Install EGR valve (5), gasket and bolts (4) to cylinder head. Tighten to 30 N.m (22 ft. lbs.).
3. Install EGR tube (2), gasket and bolts (3) to EGR valve (5). Tighten to 15 N.m (11 ft. lbs.).
4. Connect electrical connector (1) to EGR valve (5).
5. Connect negative battery cable, tighten nut to 5 N.m (45 in. lbs.).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zLgmL7iBqI
This is a really excellent answer.
Thought I would provide an update...
The light went away but then it returned. I figured better to repair now (when I have time) then later.
I purchased the Dorman EGR Valve at Napa Auto Parts (lifetime warranty). It comes with mounting bolts and seals. The replacement of the EGR Valve was not too difficult but it is a bit of a tight space (I did not want to remove any other parts so I worked around them).
Potential Problem: removing the EGR Tube from the Valve is not easy because over time the mounting bolts corrode and when you attempt to remove them they strip (I saw a video where the guy had the same thing happen). I sprayed some penetrating oil on them and one bolt removed without stripping but the other did not. I was successful using vise grip pliers to grip the bolt and twist it free (the guy in the video took it to a garage and they used a bolt extractor socket).
I cleaned the EGR Tube with carb cleaner; the tube opening had lots of hard carb build up. I do not think the EGR Tube was causing the problem so after cleaning I attached it to the new EGR Valve and then reinstalled it.
I was not sure how much to tighten the bolts but I think I used adequate pressure.
So Far So Good... the light has not returned. In examining the old EGR Valve it did not look like it was possible to clean it as it is electronic. The guy who sold me the part also said he did not think it could be cleaned and confirmed that on a 2009 vehicle it is likely that the valve is full of carbon and could need replacing.
Thanks.