Recently came into a 2002 Toyota Camry XLE with the 3.0L V6 engine (auto transmission) and 242K miles. The previous owner mentioned that the driver's window switches acted funny; I didn't think anything of it. But I have not been able to figure it out. The easiest way to describe the issue is that the driver's master switch seems to have some crossed wires:
- driver's window goes up/down correctly (although the auto up feature does not work)
- passenger: down on switch lowers passenger [correct], up on switch raises passenger rear [incorrect]
- driver rear window: down on switch raises passenger [incorrect], up on switch raises driver rear [correct]
- passenger rear: down on switch lowers passenger rear [correct], up on switch lowers driver rear [incorrect]
One other item of note that I have discovered: the power windows remain operational even after the car has been turned off and sitting in my garage for days (operational by both driver's master switch and each respective individual window switch - these function normally). The sunroof does not remain operational, nor the radio. The odometer remains "on" i.e. readable. So far I have:
1. Tested all fuses, none blown
2. Replaced power window and accessory relays
3. Replaced driver's master window switch
4. Taken it to a local mechanic (ex-Toyota dealer mechanic) and his theory is that the cabin fuse/relay box needs to be replaced
Anyone have an idea as to what could be causing such strange behavior? Thank you in advance!
It is a "head scratcher" and it's a pretty cool one.
This is one of those scenarios where, “Once you have eliminated the impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.”
And the only conclusion is that somebody got into this harness before and spliced 3 of those wires wrong. Maybe there were some broken wires in the door to body flexible conduit or somewhere else.
You have UP and DOWN functions on ALL of those windows from the master switches on the driver's door panel. That confirms the integrity of the wiring from the master switch to the individual window switches. The individual windows function correctly at their individual window switches. That confirms that they're all getting Grounds on both wires from their master switches when their master switches are in the "at rest" positions (again, confirms no broken or shorted wires).
There's 3 wires just going to the wrong places (Great job on the troubleshooting and explaining what's happening).
1) The Front Passenger Window:
a) The wire currently connected to the Front Passenger UP master switch needs to be cut and that UP switch wire needs to be spliced to the wire currently connected to the Driver Rear Down master switch.
2) The Rear Passenger Window:
a) The wire currently connected to the Passenger Rear UP master switch needs to be cut and that UP switch wire needs to be spliced to the wire you just cut away (in step 1a) from the Passenger UP switch
3) The Rear Driver Window:
a) The wire connected to the Driver Rear DOWN master switch was already cut (in step 1a) so that DOWN switch wire needs to be spliced to the wire you just cut away (in step 2a) from the Passenger Rear Up switch.
Now all the wires are connected correctly and the windows should work right from the driver's door master switches.
Regarding the auto up feature, it needs to be reset after disconnecting the battery or changing the master switch. You can look up the procedure on the internet. It's something like close the window to the halfway position and release the switch. Then hold the UP switch for 5 seconds after the window closes all the way.
Regarding why the Power Window Relay is staying energized by the Multiplex (body ECU/Cabin fuse box).
In this system all the Multiplex does is to energize the Power Windows Relay (it isn't involved in the actual control of the windows)
Even though the circuit description says the "operate with Key Off" feature should timeout after 23 seconds OR until it gets a signal from the driver's door courtesy light switch (whichever comes 1st), I've seen these type of circuits totally reliant on that "door ajar" switch signal. (Usually in circuits using a RAP relay) but it's the same deal as here.
So before you condemn the multiplex, check to see if it's getting the open/closed signals from the driver's door courtesy light switch because like I say, someone's been into this harness before.
- You could try to check the wiring but the main thing I would suggest is not to put any money into it
