Hi, I am in the market looking for a used AWD truck or crossover AWD vehicle, Preferably Midsized
I am looking to spend around 15K to 20 K, can you please give me a few options, Years , Makes, Models
Thanks for your help!
When asking about a vehicle and you say you want AWD, before I would recommend anything, my question is, why do you want AWD?
Also, why do you say you may need a truck, is there a reason?
The more details, the better answers you will get.
Thanks!
Thanks all for your input, sorry I should have provided more info to get a better response,
I meant more of an Midsized SUV since I have to load some boxes for my bussiness at times, need the extra space I wanted an AWD for the few times that we get snow in NJ
I was considering a Volvo?
Original Post below
Hi, I am in the market looking for a used AWD truck or crossover AWD vehicle, Preferably Midsized
I am looking to spend around 15K to 20 K, can you please give me a few options, Years , Makes, Models
Thanks for your help!
I'm not aware of any pickups with AWD. That's usually something for cars, SUV's, and sometimes vans.
I wouldn't be interested in any AWD vehicle. Their complexity makes them short lived and extremely expensive to own. I would go for an on demand 4x4 truck before looking at these.
Hi @doc, can you elaborate why AWD cars (used) are a bad idea ? Curious about how 4x4 can last longer than AWD, as they both tend to have a transfer case and two diffs. I am new to car maintenance and would love to understand from a long-term maintenance perspective.
The company that’s mastered AWD is Subaru. Subaru is king for AWD, change the PTU fluid for the AWD system every 30k and that AWD will last for yrs and yrs. For a small truck get a Tacoma or a Colorado diesel. Full size I’d skip 1/2 tons and just move up to 3/4 or 1 ton, they’re built better overall. Side note, you will not find any Ford, GM, RAM or Toyota truck with AWD.
full-time 4WD(first gen highlander)
you will have to be more specific. Can you point out a year and model?
or an intelligent AWD(Subarus) better for driving on dry roads
performance differences are irrelevant on dry roads.
I have read full-time 4WD wears out the tires faster
Again, you will have to be more specific. Anything full-time is usually referred to as AWD, not 4WD.
Most part-time 4WD system will lock the front and rear axles to the same speed, causing it to scrub rubber off the tires in situations requiring speed differentiation (such as turning), and also degrades handling. This is usually not an issue, because the driver is willing to make those sacrifices to gain traction. 4WD is typically used in low-spees, off-road conditions. You do not use it for city driving.
slip-grip or intelligent AWD not so much.
{black}:idontknow: what are those?
Most AWD system are better suited to on-road driving at high speed. Since you don't really mention what you intend to use the vehicle for, the conditions you drive in, or why you think you need traction systems, this is probably the correct choice for you.
how a full-time 4WD fares after 150,000 miles.
again, model dependent. But any kind 4WD/AWD system automatically adds a lot of cost to maintenance, repair, and fuel consumption.
you do not engage 4WD on dry pavement.
Thank you for the detailed answer.
For the full-time 4WD I was referring to a 2007 Toyota Highlander V6. And in the case of Subaru a modern-day forester(2020) .
I'm sure they both work well on-road. Toyota durability overall is better than Subaru's I think.
https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/2006-highlander-4wd-system.126863/
https://www.corwintoyota.com/awd-vs-4wd.htm
Thank you for sharing.
The 4wd and the AWD both have two diffs, a trans and a transfer case. The AWD is always driving the front diff, the 4wd is not. You don't need the extra wear and tear of the AWD except in low traction situations which is a fraction of your driving time. The AWD just has more to wear out and faster.
got it, thank you.
This is not totally accurate.
There are probably hundreds of different kinds of transfer cases, each with their own modes of operation as far as engagement goes. There are passive and active AWD systems. Mechanical and electronic. Full time and part time. Some can even switch between 4wd and awd.
In BOTH awd and 4wd vehicles, the front axle is mostly being driven by THE WHEELS. All the components of the front differential and front driveshaft are turning and experiencing wear. The only exception is where the vehicle has hubs that can unlock.
I don't believe that wear is a significant issue with AWD systems as a general rule. Yes some can be more complex and expensive. Others are not and junkyards are full of components.
Makes sense. May I know, if a full-time 4WD(first gen highlander) or an intelligent AWD(Subarus) better for driving on dry roads ? According to what I have read full-time 4WD wears out the tires faster, slip-grip or intelligent AWD not so much. Again, there is not much info on the internet regarding on how a full-time 4WD fares after 150,000 miles.
@Harb7nger My Lexus GX470 is full time 4wd/awd weirdo. I have over 30k miles on my nokian rotiiva AT tires, and they are at about 50%, tire wear is great.
As was mentioned, 4wd is better for off road, or in a situation you need extra traction, like getting up a nasty dirt/snowy/icy hill. AWD is more used for normal roads, and are aimed at icy and wet road conditions as best I can tell, with the possibility of light off road use.
These systems are complex these days. Many people hear 4wd and think that power is being sent to all 4 wheels, that is not correct. Most 4wd systems send power to the front and rear diffs, but only one tire in front and back is providing power at any given moment. If you have a rear locker, both back tires turn, if you have both front and rear lockers, all 4 are providing power, and you have the most traction possible. My 4wd system, when I lock the center differential, provides power just like a normal 4wd system, one tire in front, one in rear. If one tire slips, say the front, the activ track kicks in, actually applying brake to the slipping tire, which gives power to the one not slipping. This is an alternative to a locking diff, but not as good when you need the most traction, much better than normal 4wd with unlocked diffs though.
AWD can be a bit more mysterious, used to be that only one tires was doing the pulling, just like a normal car, but all 4 tires have the possibility of providing power when needed, just one at a time. The advantage is that is a tire slips, it will shift power to any of the other tires to get you moving. There are tons of different types of AWD systems, and some seem to provide power to all four wheels, at the same time.
I love the awd system in my GX, that is, what I use every day, without locking my center differential, turning on 4wd.
I have been in some nasty situations from to ice, snow, wind, and rain. It is almost hard to lose traction on a normal road, it just shifts traction right to a tire not slipping. My old 98' 4runner was great in mud, but the awd system alone in my GX makes me feel so much better on nasty roads.
Keep in mind that neither awd or 4wd will improve braking one bit. Best devices in icy/wet conditions are good tires for the situation, and a clear mind.
Is that about as clear as mud now?
thanks for clearing that up @nlord 😀
Nice to learn from your experience.
I was referring to the older, locking hub type 4wd systems where the front wheels were free spinning on the front axle. Somewhere in the early 80s, GM got rid of locking hubs, so essentially the wheels were locked to the axle all the time and hence were spinning the axles, front differential and front drive shaft. In those days, we usually just bought a set of Warn locking hubs and replaced the caps so we could truly unlock the front end components and got less wear and tear on the running gear and much better fuel mileage.
I haven't seen locking hubs in a long time. I think drivers don't want to have to get out of the their vehicles. And the electric locking systems never worked reliably.
I agree, but I think they are just lazy slugs. The only reliable way I found to properly engage 4 wheel drive was to get my butt out of the truck, turn the hubs to "Lock", get back in and put the transfer case in 4 High.