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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Answer to: Blue smoke for few minutes when car is cold | 20Relevance | 5 years ago | ItAintRight | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| hey buddy merry christmas. blue smoke would definitely signify oil burning. When the engine is ice cold on startup each of the heads are flexed inward kind of like how your ballsack comes up to your body in cold weather. as the engine warms up the heads will come flex outward to a more flat position. this seals the head gaskets better against the flat surface for a better seal and the smoke goes away. this sounds like your problem, and its ok to live with for a few years if you are at a stop sign and u see blue smoke as you pull away from an intersection ... | |||||
| 3rd party auto parts | 19Relevance | 5 years ago | Crell4 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... grading system by giving their lower grades a softer name, like "Original" or call the entire line by a different name like Mevotech's "Auto Extra" line they used to have. A long time ago, Mevotech even made their horrible Auto Extra parts look identical to their Supreme X Factor parts with their signature blue grease bulb and some unscrupulous sellers would exchange boxes so they could send out the cheap parts when the customer paid for the Supreme parts (which happened to me). One thing to watch for is what country the parts are made. Ball jointed par ... | |||||
| Answer to: mr kilmer can blue drive odb tool 99$ check if odemeter been adjust? can check out? | 18Relevance | 5 years ago | Mod_Man | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| DUDE....please don't....what....hectapost??...your question. The mods have to clean that up and they already have full plates. I would suggest you check the blue driver website to see if it has that capability. | |||||
| Blue drivee | 18Relevance | 5 years ago | Jeff in Conneaut | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi. Scotty Have you ever tested blue driver ? Scan tool for smart phones. Is it worth the 100.00 Amazon price ? | |||||
| 2005 Scion XB Door Lock Issues | 18Relevance | 3 years ago | Micronaut | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| My sister was having problems with the automatic door locks on her 2005 Scion XB. Some of them would work intermittently, others would never work at all. So I went ahead and replaced all the door lock actuators. All the new actuators work fine with the key fob, or the driver's door button. But there are 2 mysterious problems which puzzle me. 1. When using the key in the driver's door, it will only unlock the driver's door. It will not unlock all the other doors, as it should. When I use the key in the front passenger door, it unlocks all the doors just fine. How can I get it to unlock all the doors from the driver's door key-hole? 2. The front passenger door unlocks just fine with the key fob, or driver's door button, but when I try to unlock it with the key, something jams, and when I pull the handle, the door opens a only a little bit, but won't come completely open. I have to push it closed again, lock it, and then unlock it with the fob, or driver's door button. And then it will open normally. Interestingly, if the door is already unlocked, and I turn the key as if to unlock it, it jams, just as previously described. What could be causing this? And how might I fix it? | |||||
| Answer to: 2004 town car doorlock and alarm going off | 18Relevance | 3 years ago | Just Lofi | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Here are some things you could look into that may be of help. I'd also recommend asking around in a Lincoln town car forum as there can be lots of info there too. 1. Spray WD-40 or some form of gel lube on all of the door latches and open and slam each door somewhat hard 15-20 times. Sometimes they don't fully latch all the way and in some cases, these boats tend to have sagging doors from general usage as their heavy 2. Some mentioned it could be a bad/worn/caked up hood latch switch that may need replacing/adjusting. You could grab one from a junkyard. 3. DDM - driver's door module could also be a suspect in this case and gone bad. This is actually a common failure in these cars. You could snatch one up on ebay or also dig one out from a junkyard. It's recommended the DDM part numbers match as different trims levels of these cars had different features. In the case of your 2004, the year of town cars you'd want to look for are for 03-04 since in 2005 it had a refresh. Just wanted to reiterate that these are simply suggestions. Without using Forscan or some type of expensive scan tool to check for the latest triggered event, you're shooting your shot in the dark and it's winging/guessing at this point. Since you're also looking to not activate the alarm in general, you could also do this instead. - To bypass the system and not activate the alarm on lock, lock all four doors using the remote fob, keypad on driver's door, or pushing the lock button from inside when exiting the vehicle. (If one method of locking fails, try the next option) - Get out of the car and close the driver's door shut - Unlock the car by ONLY unlocking the driver's door, then open the driver's door only - Physically press down the lock stock by the window glass to lock the driver's door again and then close the door shut - At this point, your car should be locked and the alarm will not be on (Exercise this with caution since you're basically turning off your car's security system). Good luck! | |||||
| Broken rubber retainer for driver-side inside door mechanism of 2000 Ford Contour Sport | 18Relevance | 2 years ago | Sapporo Boy | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| My father recently purchased a 2000 Ford Contour Sport for less than $2,500. It's a four-door sedan with an automatic transmission and less than 107,000 miles on the odometer. Unfortunately, my father wound up breaking the rubber retainer for the car's driver-side inside door mechanism. Can someone give me advice on how my father can fix the problem? Sadly, it's my understanding that the cable assembly is practically impossible to come by in this day and age. 😔 | |||||
| Answer to: Rear driver side rear power window | 18Relevance | 5 years ago | jack62 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I'm still going to go into one of my long-winded explanations but I'll give you the option to spare yourself of enduring it. The short explanation for what's happening is you have a broken ground wire and if you open your driver's Door and look at the door jamb between the front and back doors it's inside this flexible conduit coming out of the back door. The wires in there get "fatigued" from the movement of the door opening and closing over the years and they sometimes break. .......and something like this happens: You can scroll down to the end of my post and I'll Link a video of a guy doing the repair on a Civic, which is basically the same as your Canadian Acura EL just not as fancy. Ok, I warned you.... So to wrap your head around what's going on here let's look at the wiring diagram. See how when Neither the driver's Door Master Switch for the Rear driver's side window NOR the Back Door driver's Side window switches are toggled, GROUND is being provided to both wires going to that window motor. So what have you ruled out? You've ruled out the motor and regulator assembly, you replaced it. You tried swapping the switch with a known good switch. That didn't help. So looking at the diagram you know you're getting Power to that switch or else the window motor wouldn't work in the Down Position. So what's left? Let's look at a Close Up when the window switch is toggled to the UP Position. So, you know the switch is good. You know the motor is good. You know you're getting power to the switch because the switch works in the Down Position. What's left? That Ground wire going to the Down Side of the switch. If it were broken in that flexible conduit the Window Motor would have Power AND Ground in the Down Rotation of the motor. It would work fine. But the switch wouldn't have Ground in the UP Rotation of the motor and even though it had power, the motor can't operate without a Ground. So, NO UP rotation direction of the motor would be possible. So how can you test this theory? Very easily. When your window switches are "at rest" unplug the motor from the harness in the door. You replaced the motor so you know exactly where it is. Do you have Ground going to BOTH Wires at the connector to the window motor when the window switch isn't toggled in the UP or Down position? You should. Use a test light to find out. Anyhow, here's that video | |||||
| Answer to: Is it possible that the driver side roof moulding bracket area is where my leak is? | 18Relevance | 5 years ago | LuvToyotas | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Thank you for trying to help. I feel the door seal is not leaking. The solution from another responder that blasting the vents on full, and spraying soapy water on the outside of the car is not a solution because I know where the initial leak is. I know where the water is initially coming into the car. After removing the outside driver side roof drip side rubber moulding and then taking off the driver side inside A-Pillar trim, then hose spraying the driver side front bracket that the roof molding uses, I can see where the water is dripping down directly below where the bracket is. I can see this because the A-Pillar trim is removed. If the A-Pillar trim was not removed, the water can just flow down the inside of the trim to the area that I mentioned on the driver side floorboard. I was just wondering if it is possible for the metal bracket to have a crack or hole underneath causing this water leak or maybe the roof drip side rails has a hairline crack? If so, what type of sealant is recommended for sealing? | |||||
| Is it possible that the driver side roof moulding bracket area is where my leak is? | 18Relevance | 5 years ago | LuvToyotas | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Car:2003 Toyota Camry, 135,000 miles, automatic, NO sunroof.My driver side floor gets wet because of a leak in my car. I removed the inside trim panel underneath the hood release. I am seeing water dripping down the metal. I sprayed the front driver side window with a water hose and it leaked. I have replaced the window and it still leaks. Mechanic says AC and heater coil OK. I recently have been successful in pinpointing the leak source, which is the following: I removed the roof drip side moulding on driver side (rubber car side seals that run along the roof from the windshield to the back glass). I used a hose to spray water on the area where this moulding meets the front window. It leaked in the above mentioned area. I applied GE Silicone 2 (100% Waterproof) where the moulding meets the front window. It is still leaking. I took off the driver side inside A-Pillar trim. I used a hose to sprayed the front bracket that the roof molding uses. Water was dripping down inside the car below where that roof bracket is. Is it possible that the bracket area is where my leak is? | |||||
| Does everyone routinely replace differential breathers? | 18Relevance | 4 years ago | vanillaSEALant | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... came from driver's side rear wheel. Caliper looked damp like a well-greased cast iron pan. 1st Service: Replaced rear driver's side caliper --> Leakage problem worsens 2nd Service: Replaced rear axle seal --> Oil no longer pooling inside the wheel, but leaking continues. Yellow (fresh?) oil found around the caliper and rotor like drops of morning dew. Took the car on the highway after the second repair and heard a rattling noise coming by the driver's side door. Aghast, I file a claim to the Toyota headquarters. A case is opened on my behalf. ... | |||||
| What do these ABS codes mean | 17Relevance | 3 years ago | Flipper | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Dear Scotty, I used the blue driver scan tool on my 2008 Subaru Forester XT and these 2 codes showed up for the ABS: (VDC - Vehicle Dynamic Control) codes 4146 and 4702. I can't find anything on line to explain what these two codes are or mean. blue driver says that no description is available and that the code is rare. Should I have a mechanic check it out, or can I safely ignore the codes? As Far as I can tell, the breaks are functioning correctly. Thanks. | |||||
| RE: How to learn to use Scan Tools? | 17Relevance | 4 years ago | BruceREE | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Yeah I would recommend you the blue driver. There are others around the same price that are same concept but blue driver is the only company that I've seen that constantly rolls out updates and new drivers to fix bugs and whatnot. For looking at live data, it's pretty intuitive as well albeit slow on first start up cause it needs to "learn your car(s)" but slow and steady in the least. Their live data is pretty alright being just about a half a second off for say rpm reving from what I've seen. And if there is anything you don't know you can always check out ... | |||||
| Answer to: Bluedriver Bluetooth Pro VS. Autel MaxiDiag MD806 4 System for 2021 | 17Relevance | 5 years ago | BruceREE | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Autel is a good brand (my shop only uses their scan tools albeit it's like $3-5k a piece lol) And it mostly depends on what you are to use the scan tool for. For basics, blue driver is good for codes and live data and what not but not the best at erasing codes, I have found where as it SEEMS this Autel scanner services provides codes like any scan tool but also has enough good features for more further diagnosis and such. Either or, blue driver is a good bet for just surface level diag, especially since that's all most cars typically need. | |||||
| P0172 P0175n P02096 p0298 codes | 18Relevance | 4 years ago | LarryBusch | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... 4.0 Litre, as I love square cars. I baby it, change oil/filter every 6 month, do most of service myself, had the timing belt, water pump, pulleys replaced last year at dealer(2400USD), transmission fluid checked and replaced 3 years ago. When I drive around 30 to 40 miles an hour and accelerate, car hesitates, sometime won't accelerate right away. Oct 27 21 , I accelerated to pass a car, it kicked down with high rpm, engine light came on and flashed , I stopped shortly after, used my blue driver and got code P0201(Fuel injector 1 circuit open) and P0301(c ... | |||||