Follow this video:

https://youtu.be/064Ilsz8Fzg

So when you put a spare spark plug in the COP coil you made sure you had the spark plug threads on a good ground, you cranked the engine and there wasn't any spark. (You really should use an HEI spark tester, but "any port in a storm".

You have 3 wire COP coils. 1 wire is 12 volts. 1 wire is ground, and 1 wire is the triggering signal from the PCM.

So which one of these 3 is missing?

I'll begin by saying the most likely reason for your symptom (no spark to any ignition coils) is a faulty crankshaft position sensor. If you wanted to cross your fingers and throw a part at it, that's the one.

But I wouldn't just throw a new one one it without checking a few things 1st.

Let's look at your ignition coils circuit (the actual wire color abbreviations are printed on the diagram):

All 4 ignition coils get their Power (Red) from Fuse 1 in the passenger compartment under dash fuse box. It's labeled "ignition coils)

Check that fuse.

Ideally you'd use a test light on the ignition coil connectors to check that they're getting power on their BLK/WHT wires "KEY ON" (the circuit I have highlighted in Red) but at least check that fuse.

Again, ideally, while you had your test light handy you'd check for ground on the BLK wires (the circuit I have highlighted in Green) at the ignition coil connectors.

With that #1 Fuse confirmed as GOOD, and with Power and Ground being provided to the ignition coils you confirmed that the coils aren't getting their switching signal from the PCM to fire them and likely that's because the PCM isn't getting a signal from the Crankshaft Position Sensor.

So you'll turn your attention to the Crankshaft Position Sensor.

The Crankshaft Position Sensor also has 3 wires. 

Power 

Ground

Crank Sensor Signal (to the PCM)

Here again, we won't worry about the Signal. (because you'd need a scope or at least a multimeter that can measure Hertz)

We can just use the process of elimination again.

If we confirm that the Crankshaft Position Sensor is being provided Power on its "power wire" and Ground on its "ground wire" we can make a safe assumption that the Crankshaft Position Sensor is faulty. 

So start with Power 1st.

The crankshaft position sensor gets its power from the PGM-FI relay 1. The relay has a PGM-FI 1 fuse.

The Fuse is in position 6 in your underhood fuse box and it's labeled "PGM-FI Main Relay No.1" so check that fuse.

If all the above checks out good you've narrowed it down to the PGM-FI Relay 1, or the crankshaft position sensor as being the problem.

The PGM-FI Relay 1 is located behind your glove box. The Glove box insert pops right out. (easy).

So you have 2 choices. Test the relay and its socket or just test for power at the Crankshaft Position Sensor.

Here's how the circuit looks:

Here's step-by-step instructions on how to test for Power and Ground at the Crankshaft Position Sensor's wiring connector:

https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/honda/1.7L/how-to-test-the-crank-sensor-1

So compressing another of my long-winded posts into 3 easy steps:

1) Check Fuse #1 in the under dash fuse box and check for Power and Ground at the ignition COP coils.

2) Check the PGM-FI 1 fuse (position 6) in the underhood fuse box.

3) Check for Power and Ground at the connector to the Crankshaft Position Sensor.

If you have power and ground at the crankshaft position sensor and all of the above checked out good, replace the sensor