Hey Scotty.

I have a 2014 Honda Accord EX-L V6 with 231K miles and an automatic transmission.  I do all my own maintenance on the car.

I began getting EPS DTC 33-01 (Motor Drive Circuit Malfunction) New Year’s Eve while driving in the rain.  At first, the issue was intermittent, meaning I could clear the DTCs with an OBD2 tool and my power steering would begin operating and the light would be off.

I went through a test process associated with the DTC while the issue was intermittent, basically it tested for a short to ground in the wiring harness or the steering rack motor and if no short to exists, it directs you to replace the EPS controller.  There were no shorts to ground.

I replaced with EPS controller with a new Honda part and a local shop ran a calibration process and reset the DTC.  Shortly after leaving the shop, the EPS issue reoccurred.  It remained intermittent for a while but eventually became permanent.  Of note, while the 33-01 is permanent, I can reset the code and it does not return until the engine is started.

I do not remember the exact timing, but I think after the 33-01 became permanent, I started getting ABS-related issues and a DTCs U0416-68 and 121-11 VSA System Malfunction, VSA Brake Actuator Malfunction.  I also get the LDW, FCW, ABS, VSC and brake lights all on the dash.  The VSA/ABS combination of lights and errors come and go at will. While driving, they may or may not come on and off during the same trip, they may shut off without my intervention.  I’ve had that group of errors come on (or off) while the car was running and in park.

Another noteworthy piece of information is that when it is below freezing, ALL of these symptoms disappear, meaning the power steering works and all of the ABS issues disappear. When I figured this out, I checked and while water conducts electricity, ice does not.  Once it warms above freezing, the symptoms return.  As a result, I am suspicious that water has infiltrated some part of the system and is causing my issues.

Just so that you are aware, in the fall I replaced the front ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, CV shafts, and front struts.

Here is a brief description of what has been done to the car in an attempt to resolve the issue:

• The EPS controller has been replaced.
• Both front ABS sensors have been replaced.
• The brake fluid has been replaced.
• The battery sensor has been replaced.
• I have run a battery test and alternator test via OCD2 tool both passed.
• I used canned air (so it would be dry) to blow out the connectors to the EPS motor on the rack, the VSA controller/solenoid and the ABS sensors.  In some cases, dielectric grease was applied.

It appears that I am down to issues with the VSA Controller/Solenoid, PCM and/or steering rack.  I am operating on a tight budget and need to make my next repair attempt successful.

I have a few questions and hope you can answer them and/or direct me to resources that can.

• Do you have any advice regarding troubleshooting or repairing this issue or think I need to be looking in a different direction?
• Can I disconnect the PCM cables without the need to reprogram the PCM so that I can clean them with the canned air and check for water?
• Is there any reasonable way to get a real wiring diagram for the car?
• Is it possible the software on the new EPS controller needs to be updated and/or the EPS controller needs to be configured to the PCM and/or the VSA Controller/solenoid?  If so, is there a budget-friendly method to do so?
• If I install a PCM does it have to be done by a Honda dealer for programming or can private shops handle the reprogramming?
• If I install a new VSA Controller/Modulator does it have to be programmed, software updated, or otherwise married to the PCM?  Again, if so, does it need to be done by the Honda dealer?
• I lean towards replacement of the VSA Controller/Modulator next.  Do you think that is a wise next step?
• I live in the Houston area (Cleveland).  Do you have a recommendation for a qualified shop or mechanic that I could take it to that would help me with this issue who would not take advantage of me financially?
• Is it practical to remove the covers of the PCM and/or the VSA controller and check for water infiltration and dry them out if needed?  If I did so, would I need to have either of them reprogrammed?
• Is there a practical way to acquire a real set of factory service manuals for my car for a reasonable price?
• Is there any other advice or information you think I need to resolve this issue.

Thanks for your assistance with my car.

Cheers!

Walter Lancaster