So Im trying to help out my neighbor that’s an elderly lady she has a 2015 Honda Accord with around 90k miles on it a few months ago she had new brake pads installed well she always has me drive her car right after to make sure it feels rite well it didn’t i pretty much pushed the brake pedal as far down as possible and the car would almost not stop so I let her know she took it back and they fixed it o drove it again everything was fine so about 2 months later her car would start up run for 2-3 seconds and die .. well she took it to a mechanic they changed out the spark plugs well car was running good and then 2 weeks later same problem car would run and die she took it back to the mechanic and they said it was a bad fuse replaced it car worked fine so another 2 weeks and same problem so I bought some fuses for her and would change them out she was tired of taking it back and forth they did mention it might be the brake actuator that’s going out . Would that have possibly been from that bad break job from the start ? And now the. Car will start with a new fuse then the dash board malfunctions blinkers don’t blink and once put in park you can’t get it out unless putting another new fuse in .. I’m stumped and I’m feel like it’s simple and if she takes it to a mechanic she’s going to get ripped off .. please help.
Let us know. If you start the Accord and DON'T put it into any gear or press the brake pedal again, and just let it sit there and idle for 10 minutes, will the #5 fuse blow?
That's a busy little fuse. If I were to pick the "top three" likely suspects I'd choose (in no particular order)
1: Shift Lock Solenoid. (the guy that's holding the shifter in Park when the fuse blows)
2: Back Up Lights circuit.
3: Transmission Range Switch. (on the outside of the transmission)
Since we're doing this in no particular order, let's run through these 3 in the order I listed them.
1: The Shift Lock Solenoid.
It has a wiring connector with 2 contacts on it. Power and Ground.
The Power side gets its power from that #5, 7.5amp fuse whenever the Key is in the ON position.
The computer provides the Ground to the other side to energize the solenoid so it releases the shift lever from the Park Position.
The computer will provide the Ground when the Brake Pedal IS pressed, the gas pedal ISN'T being pressed, and the car is in Park.
(Pretty much what you do when you start the car).
Start the car and just sit there, don't touch the gas pedal or the shifter, and hold the brake pedal down for a minute and then release it for a few seconds. Repeat that several times. Brake on for a minute then release.
Everytime you hold that brake pedal down, foot OFF the gas, in Park, the computer is going to send the Ground to the Shift Lock Solenoid and energize it. If after several times the fuse doesn't fry, I wouldn't suspect the shift lock solenoid.
2: Back Up Lights Circuit.
I chose the Back up Light circuit for a few reasons. First, you can't shift out of Park into any other gear without going through Reverse. Second, the Back Up lights/sockets and wiring are in an area where they're more likely to be affected by rust/corrosion. Third, it has 2 diodes in the circuit.
Check your manual, yours should be very close to this:
Start on the top of the diagram and locate your pesky #5 fuse. Notice how it provides power to both the Control side of the A/T Reverse Relay AND the Load side of the A/T Reverse Relay when the Key is in ON or START.
Now locate the Transmission Range Switch on the diagram. See how when the shifter is moved to Reverse (R), it closes the Ground circuit from ground point G101 to provide Ground to the Control side of the relay, energizes it, which closes the Load Side contact to provide Power (over the Light Blue wires) to the Back Up lights.
So to rule out a problem with the A/T Reverse Relay, the Back Up Lights' wiring (Lt Blue) and the bulbs and their sockets, remove the A/T Reverse Relay.
Start the car and put it in Reverse. Hold it there for a few minutes. If the #5 fuse doesn't fry then you can suspect the A/T Reverse Relay or the Back Up Lights' wiring/sockets/bulbs.
However, if the fuse still fries you can rule them out as the problem.
If the fuse still fries you'll want to locate and test those two diodes to make sure they aren't shorted. There's plenty of youtubes on how to do that with a cheap ($8) multimeter.
If you determine the diodes are good it's time to move on to suspect #3.
3: Transmission Range Switch.
That last wiring diagram showed ONLY how the transmission range switch is involved in the back up light circuit.
Now that we're here we have to look at it closer. I've highlighted the Power in Red and left the Ground Black.
When the Transmission Range Switch is in the Park or Neutral, it sends power to either
PCM pin B14 ATPP (Automatic Transmission Position "Park") or PCM pin B13 ATPN (Automatic Transmission Position "Neutral").
In all other positions it sends a Ground to their respective PCM pins.
(if you look at the bottom of the diagram you can see where the PCM sends the ground to energize the Shift Lock Solenoid which we covered in the beginning of this reply).
The point being, if there's a short inside of the Transmission Range Switch between Power and Ground, it will fry that #5 Fuse.
So here, you'll want to disconnect the Transmission Range Switch connector and test to see if there's any continuity between the Power input from that #5 fuse and the Ground input from the Ground Point as you move through the shifter positions. (on the switch itself, not the harness) ((there shouldn't be unless there's a short inside the switch)). Again, compare these diagrams to your repair manual. The PCM pins and the wiring colors may be different but it's the same circuit setup.
Thanks for the good info now there is another problem so I got some extra fuses delivered now when I’m starting the car the catalytic converter is smoking from where the o2 sensor is it .. this car is becoming a lemon real fast.
Let me clarify that comment when putting In a new fuse I start the car up in park and let it idle and now for the first time there is smoke coming up from where the o2 sensor is at im thinking bad o2 sensor now and it’s never done that in the past and I don’t want to catch the lady’s car on fire if that’s the case
If the car keeps blowing fuse, you have an electric short somewhere in that circuit. You need to fix it before placing another fuse.
@Jack62 is an expert in this field.
Well I I knew that it was a short I even bought the Haynes repair book and it had to be the 1 fuse that had a huge list .. I just don’t know where to start and know that new problems are occurring each time like putting the car in park while it’s still on and not being able to put it back into drive and the dash board is acting up when it first started to blow fuses it never did that .. I forgot to mention she actually took it too a Honda dealership and they could figure it out they just put a new fuse in and it worked but that was when it didn’t blow rite away.. and have the new issues.. How and where should I start too look and find the short ..
Follow this video for the blown up fuse issue:
https://youtu.be/k0yG3TwXBEw
Regarding the other issues, they most likely related tho the fuse issue. Fix it first.
Did this lady do something to it like got it drenched with rain water or drive through a massive puddle? Or it has some "Critters" chewing things up?
The engine splash guard / shield was lose and while driving it a few months prior did take a beating and it’s now gone im thinking that may have caused some initial damage