Hey Scotty, I recently started doing my own oil changes again for the first time in 12 years, so that I know what I am getting for oil and filter brands. Anyway, I have a 2008 Toyota Tundra 5.7L (283k Miles) truck and when I was putting in the 7.4 Quarts the manual stated I accidentally spilled a decent bit from my oil can. I added what I thought spilled back. Anyway, I am on a level service, have run the engine fr a couple mins, and wiped the dipstick several times to check. It was less than halfway between the marks so I added some more. But now it reads about a quarter of the marks over the full mark. So my question is do I need to drain some oil off, or is it safe to drive that way?
Thanks for the help!
Devin
OK @Doc @MountainManJoe @AussieCarReviver, I check the oil again cold and at operating temp. After I moved it to my shop where the floor is level, I checked it with a 6 foot level I have in both directions. I have attached pics of the different readings I got.
- Yes, I wipe it each time
- Yes, I tried putting the dipstick in both directions (bumps on the stick facing toward the back of the engine and facing toward the front)
I called the closest Toyota Dealership to ask them and a mechanic said that the side of the stick showing the full amount is correct, the over full side is not. He claimed is is because the stick goes in at an angle.
What do you guys think? Again, everything seems to be running well and the oil pressure after it warms up hovers about half or just under the half mark. I drove it around the neighborhood for a couple mins, didn't notice, hear, or smell anything off. I guess I can't attach pictures here. One show 3/4 between low and full bumps, the other shows about a quart over the full bump.
where? I don't see pics
I do see any way to attach pics here.
There's a link right at the top of the main page that says "Read me first". I don't know how I can make it any more obvious.
There's a box over on the right hand side. It says search. It helps you find things.
It's not that you didn't see. You didn't look. Just like all those bad drivers on the road.
{black}:serious:
Suck the excess out of the dipstick tube with a Mityvac.
https://www.skf.com/mityvac/products/hand-vacuum-pressure-pumps
Or, just drain the oil out and refill with the correct amount.
I would, but I would have to wait for it. I was thinking of just cracking the oil drain plug and letting some out. But will that make my new plug gasket no good? I use the Toyota official drain plug gasket, not those copper ones. I have more, but can put a new one on unless I drain all the oil. We don't have another vehicle for me to go to the parts store to buy a pump either. Hence some of my nervousness.
but can put a new one on unless I drain all the oil.
sure you can. remove plug. insert finger. prepare new washer. remove finger. replace plug.
Badabing
I do it on outboards all the time.
The question is, do I need to replace the washer? I mean it's a brand new washer, or has it been crushed and is no good? I would love to just crack the plug and let some oil out, then tighten it. I'm still trying to find a container to put the rest of my old oil in, I filled a 5 quart container. I have another 7 quarts of new oil, so that's not an issue.
Pay attention. I already said they can be reused.
Yep, you did. Sorry, I don't mean to waste anyone's time. I'm having to get over the fear, about to turn 40 and I'm scared to change my oil, lol. I wish I would have been taught more of this stuff when I was a kid, I'm determined to teach my kids, homeschooling is great. 😀
Don’t worry it’s hard to screw up too badly. Just don’t overtighten things. Oil filters and plugs only need to be just snug.
Trying to let out some of the oil will be a disaster. Just drain it all, put the plug back in and refill with the correct amount.
So I just went out and checked it a few times cold and it's showing right on full, I'm not sure what to do at this point. When I ran it after the change yesterday and drove it around the neighborhood real quick it was running smoother than it had been on the last oil change a chain shop did.
Why doc? You don’t have to pull the plug. Just loosen until it trickles
@mmj - Maybe I am just totally uncoordinated but when I tried that I got a 10w30 shower so now I just drain it and refill.
It happens. Our faculties don't last forever. It's like driving a 20 year old car, and you're just trying to hang in there till the end. Also , every vehicle is a little different.
Unless the dipstick has Hot and Cold markings on it you need to check it once warmed up to normal operating temperature. It is a good idea to try to check at an ambient temperature above 15 degrees Celsius,(59F). The marks on most transmission dipsticks represent half a litre or 1 litre when filling you should be able to work out which by filling to the low mark, then adding half a litre. If it goes to full it's a half litre range,halfway means 1 litre, I've found these are mostly diesels or older pre pollution V8's Being over full on both transmissions and engines will often cause seeping, which the Valve cover gaskets have hardened and shrunk will leak, but that is not the worst issue, The rear main seal can leak,and that's not good at all, especially for manual gearboxes! Clutches and oil don't work together.
I'd take out the extra. If you have a vacuum pump, it's easy, but if not here's how I've done it for 20yrs or more. If you get 3metres of 10mm clear plastic tube from your local auto or hardware store and put it down the dipstick tube then slowly suck the fluid up to where you can see it about a foot or so past the top of the dipstick tube. The fluid should still be 2-3ft away from your mouth. Clamp the tube in front of your mouth and remove, then feed the tube downwards under the car to a drain pan with a measuring jug in itThen pull the hose out, but not straight up, only up enough to get it out but then down towards the drain pan using two hands. When you have pulled the hose all the way out, release the clamp holding the fluid in the hose, releasing the fluid into the measuring jug. Now check your level and top up to correct level. Remember, it does not have to be at the maximum mark with transmissions, smack in the middle of the upper half of the cross hatched section is ideal. This allows for larger temperature ranges without excess pressure being put on the seals
Hope this helps you and others make an informed decision 🙂
It does help, I actually have a few lengths of vacuum tubing I think would be long enough to to go down the dipstick tube. You mentioned transmission a few times, just to be clear, this is over full oil. The nearest parts/hardware store is 20 mins away in town, I assume I should not try going into town to get a vacuum pump? I can afford it, I could order one on Amazon too, I don't need to go anywhere until Saturday morning since I work from home. But I want to play it safe since it's currently our only vehicle, and such a great one at that! We love our Toyotas and want to take care of them properly. I just screwed this oil change up after having not changed oil in over a decade, I used to change my oil all the time. Now I know better, it's best to do it yourself so you know what you are getting. I found the filter my last oil change place put in was definitely not a Toyota and the engine ran slightly rougher after that place. But after I just changed the oil it sounds better and the power felt smoother, it's not just in my head either. I bought several Toyota filters from the dealership, Denso air filters, and Mobile 1 High Millage 0W-20. That will be the norm for now on, I know other brands can be OK, but this will be my baseline.
But will that make my new plug gasket no good?
no . It's fine. They can be reused a few times.
it reads about a quarter of the marks over t
a quarter of what?
A quarter between the low and full lines. I assume that means a quarter quart? The oil line is that much above the full line.
I may try using some vacuum like to put down the dipstick tube and try to extract some oil that way.
I mean the easiest thing to do is crack the oil plug and let some seep out, I just get paranoid about that washer/gasket.
I'm trying to get over the beginner fear, even though I used to change the oil on my car several years ago all the time. This truck was much different, with a skid plate to remove, then the stupid cartridge style filter, and a lot more oil than my old took. But I'm determined, I plan on buying a used reasonable fixer upper as project too, plus I could use another vehicle so I can drive to the part store if needed.
no. the lines simply indicate the safe range. (unless indicated otherwise)
OK so your "quarter" refers to a distance on your dipstick which I can't see. That doesn't tell me much.
Just crack open the drain you'll be fine. Worst case you change a 50 cent washer right?
My Lexus IS220D manual states that it takes 1.5L of oil to fill from the min mark to the max on the dipstick if that helps in any way.
Other people state that modern cars have dipsticks calibrated for when the engine is warm, so you wait a minute or two after filling up to check the level. While older cars allow for the reading when the engine is cold. But I'll leave that for people who know more than me to answer.
Also I think the manuals can't always be trusted. Don't want to start anything here, as I will always refer to the manual, but still - once you know how much the engine takes from the dipstick, that's the amount it takes and it doesn't walways line up with the manual.
I agree. The quantity in my manual doesn't work either.
Then leave it alone and never go to a chain shop again.