This question might sound bizarre, coming from a guy that worked on transmissions a while back, but I want to know what others think on this issue.
Do you think that oil changes on a modern well built manual gearbox are necessary?
My experience:
Not related but a note: on automatics, CVTs and DCTs - you should obviously change the oil, there is no debate on that.
The clutch packs engadging gears obviously need oil, gear changes are actuated with oil pressure and the oil is also used to lube and cool the gears.
Where I’m coming from asking about modern ones is that:
On cheaply built manuals sold in Europe often you just MUST have oil changes done, for example the TransElf JR5 gearbox (Powers pretty much all driving instructor’s cars in Europe because of how well weighted, intuitive to drive (you just push the stick in the appropriate direction and it slides into gear), well tuned (the ratios are spot on) and indestructible it is)
this requires you to regularly change oil (every 30,000 miles) and without doing so I’ve personally seen them fail early and develop terrible whining and howling when people wouldn’t change the oil.
Another example would be the mechanical part of the Ford Focus PowerShift (pretty much form a mechanical stand point, that part on the Ford Focus is the same as a manual - unlike other DCTs) changing oil on those is very important to prevent failures of the mechanical part.
(Another example could be the C50A on Toyota that can be trouble some but, I think the damage associated with not changing oil is actually caused by valve body, solinoid, actuator and clutch wear causing it to drive so poorly they tear up the mechanical part. - I mean if they all manage to damage them selfs so much that the synchronizers are cracked and crunch like crazy… I’m sure that the actual gears and forks receive their damage by it just being so poorly and not just because dirty oil)
Hey scotty i got a 92 ford fistiva and i am having a problem with the motor rattling sorry if its on the wrong spot idk how to work this phone 🤣
I recommend changing it every 30k. It's not expensive and is cheap insurance. It is what I do with my own cars.
I think they are designed so either you have to pay some dude serious money to do it for you or they want your trans to wear out from lack of lubrication. Anyway, I do it myself.
I agree it almost feels like they want it to be confusing and that the average consumer won’t know when to replace the oil (also claiming it’s “lifetime”)
With how information is hard to get on the exact model of certain manuals. To know exactly when you should replace the oil on each type… it really does feel like big car companies want them to fail.
Overtime fluids get dirty and worn out, and should be changed before that happens. It’s no different on a manual transmission.
Yes but how often. I can’t find a systematic time period.
JR5 on Renault gets dirty and black in 30,000 miles but a DPS6 it can go 100,000 miles before going black.
Lets see, … we are talking cars here: … differentials, manual transmissions, transfer cases. In most situations it’s one litre, or one and a half, … maybe two litres capacities of pretty well a generic lube. All those systems are vented - so the dirt and moisture does get in. We drive, what, … 175,000 kilometres in, … say, 10 years - keep a car for 10 years. Which means, … say, a change every 50,000 kilometres. What’s a big deal? We suppose to inspect those systems more often than that, … so, drain and add a litre of GL-5 thrice, over the ownership of a car. Extra cost? Pittance, …
… but I’m just musing out loud here, forgive me.
F.S.
"All those systems are vented "
Mine have one way valves,so they're only meant to relieve pressure.
Well, … in many instances - like on Miata differentials, for example, they look like that. But, in most cases, all you have is a top mounted fitting with a short piece of tubing semi-dangling down, secured with a clip holding it pointing down.
Even, so called, "sealed automatics" - like Toyota’s, are not really sealed, but are vented this very same way. All those , so called vents, are designed to breath - out and in. Plug one of those and, … shirt happens! Blown seals, …
F.S.
Yes, it’s obviously common sense that oil is cheaper then transmissions.
But I can’t put my finger on a general guide line to advise to costumers.
cause some oil costs a fortune like the Ford BO-DC (30 dollars a litter) used in the DPS6 so draining it while it’s grill perfect light-green…
I change my trans and transfer case oil every 60,000 miles per Toyota specs. They both take 1.9L of 80w-90. I will drain them both, then remove both shift levers in the cab and add the oil from the top. This way, I know I am getting the proper 1.9L in the cases. Pumping or trying to pour it in from the side fill plugs can be a very inaccurate and messy proposition, especially when you think you have it full but it's not. Then it's bye bye trans.
Yes, I don’t get what’s with the ridiculous fill and drain plugs nowadays.
On my car I need to remove the wheel and all of the lining of the wheel arch and use extensions to get to the level check plug when I change the oil every 20,000 miles. (Not to mention the regular stuff like 3 drain plugs, and having to remove the airbox to get to the fill plug)