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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| No Start and No Power | 38Relevance | 3 years ago | bigpa | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi, I am having an issue with my truck and am hoping you can assist me with seeing what could be the problem. It is a 2010 Nissan Titan 4 x 4 LE 5.8L gas not Flex. It has about 130,000 miles on it. The nature of the problem is that it will not start as in absolute zero power. It is just like the video that you made at this link It is dead as a doorknob. A little background in months prior is that on occasion it would give difficulty starting. What I mean by that is I would put the key, make the first click and the instruments would light up and everything looked fine. I then make the next click with the key to actually start it and nothing would happen. No clicking or anything. I would generally have to take the key out and try one or two more times before it would work. One time it took about four or five tries before working. Then it would go back to once or twice. This would happen about once a week and sometimes it would go longer before happening again. It has been sitting in my garage for the past four or five weeks doing nothing as I was using another vehicle. I didn't even attempt to start it once. I tried starting it up again this past Saturday. That is when I discovered that it was completely dead. So, I tried to jump start it and again completely dead. I then borrowed my father in-law's battery charger. It is this exact model I left the battery hooked up in the truck and let the battery charge until the indicator showed that it was charged. I then flipped the switch to 50A Start. I put the key in and made the first click. All of the interior lights, nav system and instrument lights lit up. I tried to start it and nothing. I tried this several times and it would not start. Only one time would it give a fast clicking sound when I tried to start it. All other times it did not make a sound at all. As soon as I removed the battery charger, it went back to zero power as dead as a doorknob. Plugging the battery charger back in would bring back all of the lights, but again it would not start or turn over. There wasn't any corrosion on the battery terminals. It is only about one year old. I cleaned them anyway. I am thinking it might be an issue with the long positive battery terminal group of wires. The reason that I say that is that I removed the battery fuse link from the rest of the cabling and saw a lot of corrosion on the connectors. I sprayed terminal cleaner and got rid of some of it, but it didn't make a difference. I am thinking that the corrosion has gone down further in the wiring and damaged enough of the wiring to prevent it from working at all. I just don't understand how connecting a battery charger would allow it to light up, but power from a jump start will not. I don't think it is the ignition switch like in the case of the video that you made since turning the key lights things up when the battery charger is connected. I ordered a power probe and it is supposed to arrive today. It's this model Since everything is pretty tight under the hood, I am having a problem identify where things are at to point the probe at in order to test. I believe one of the connectors that I will need to check is the connection to the alternator. That's at the bottom underneath side of the truck from what I can tell. I also have not used a power probe before, but I am sure that it will come with documentation on how to use it. It looks pretty straight forward from the video that I referenced at the top. Haven't check the fuses yet since I am waiting on the probe. Whatever advice that you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Specific things to check or thoughts of what could be the issue. Should I have the key turned one notch while doing these tests? Or, just completely have the key out? Thank you very much! | |||||
| Should I use a trickle charger on my hybrid battery? | 26Relevance | 1 year ago | CarNutty | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I purchased a 2015 Toyota Avalon Hybrid Limited with 60,000 miles. I will be gone for 1 month. Should I use a trickle charger on my hybrid battery while I am gone? If yes, any recommendations on what kind of trickle charger to buy? Also, are there any problems using a trickle charger for an extended period of time? | |||||
| Answer to: Battery charger suggestion | 26Relevance | 4 years ago | Whatchamacallit | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| If referring to a battery tender or trickle charger, I went with a premium brand Ctek and highly recommend them: I don’t have the model on me at the moment (will get for you) but I’ve had it for over 5 years with no issues. I had previously bought a cheapo $20 Schumacher brand from Walmart and it shortened the lifespan of my batteries. Getting a trickle charger is an investment into the life and health of your battery, so I recommend getting a good one (if your budget allows) as they are not all created equal. | |||||
| When should I change my transmission fluid on a 2018 Dodge Durango | 25Relevance | 5 years ago | Chanticleer | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I just got a 2018 dodge Durango SXT plus AWD 3.6L v6, a couple months ago and it’s up to 25k miles. I was wondering what intervals I should change the fluid in the transmission at. I was thinking around every 30k miles because it’s a dodge. I would like to keep it forever, what are your thoughts? Also I know Scotty hates dodge but my friend got a 2015 dodge charger awd new and it’s at 180k miles with no major issues. Same 3.6L engine | |||||
| Answer to: Scotty thank you, dodge charger 2021 | 25Relevance | 4 years ago | legendaryslayer | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I hate to say it but you shouldn't buy a dodge charger in the first place cause of its overall reliability. If you like dodge chargers, I would recommend you leasing it. If Scotty was here, he would appreciate you watching his videos. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. | |||||
| How do I fix parasitic drain | 37Relevance | 4 years ago | cliff6ft10 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... with dodge, charger Challenger Durango Chrysler, 300 Upstream Oxygen Sensor MOTISEN PC893 5S8954 235-1560 5149167AD Crank Crankshaft Position Sensor Compatible with Chrysler Town & Country 200 300 dodge charger Journey Jeep Grand Cherokee Wrangler RAM (3.6L, 2011-2019) P05ED Reductant Heater Control Module Supply Voltage P161B Battery Disconnected / TCM InternalU0100 Lost Communication With ECM/PCMP1D5E Power Supply 1 Circuit FaultU0129 Lost Communication With Brake System Control Module 1P2463 Particulate Filter Restriction - Soot Accumulatio ... | |||||
| Dodge charger maintenance | 35Relevance | 4 years ago | Kaseysymington | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi Scotty, I watch your videos more than anything else on YouTube and t.v. for that matter. So thanks for your experience, and willing to tell instead of sell your knowledge. I know how you feel about fca and dodge could you really take a look at the dodge charger 2021 sxt base and awd models. I would love to know what you think about a current model charger in today's car climate. I wanted a more solid vehicle in a day of 4 cylinder turbo charged 2.0 L engines, I get 24 miles per gallon and it's steady increasing, I bought with 17 miles on it for 37000 buck ... | |||||
| Mazda 3 vs Dodge Charger vs Honda Civic Si as my first car | 35Relevance | 5 years ago | edwinMarten | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello, for my first car I want either a Mazda3 manual or a dodge charger 8-speed V6 both 2020. I heard Scotty talk about how Mazda's auto transmissions are bad but I figured manuals are easier to swap or fix? Also seen in his videos he is not too fond about dodge/Chrysler/Fiat cars but said that the V6 8-speed Zf was okay. Just wanted more input from people more familiar about cars than me. I want a sporty/daily car and plan to have it until it can run no more. I wanted a muscle car but also desired for a four-door. I wanted the Mazda for awhile but ... | |||||
| Should I buy a 2008-2010 Dodge Charger? | 25Relevance | 4 years ago | pranavesh.chander | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi Scotty, One of my friends is much interested to buy a dodge charger. He has been a fan of it for a long time. Although new chargers are much more weaker, he is interested for 2008-2010 model. I have advised him against the decision as dodge have worst parts. What would be your advise? Should he buy? He has an offer in hand for 4000 USD. KM 145000. 2010 model. | |||||
| Answer to: Should I buy a dodge charger | 25Relevance | 5 years ago | i need help | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Like Scotty would say, It's a dodge. Not made well. Here is an article I found that I hope will help you out | |||||
| RE: Dodge Charger problems | 24Relevance | 5 years ago | dm4722 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| @ls1hoon54 2000s 550is and 335is aren't that much better. They're fun cars but even higher maintenance than a charger, and when they do break, they're muuch more expensive to fix. If you want a BMW of that era at least get a RWD with the N52. They're pretty robust engines to start with the added reliability benefit of port injection over the turbo engines. Obviously less power than a turbo but coming from a 3.5L charger it shouldn't be a huge difference, and the driving dynamics are way better than those FCA hunks of junk. | |||||
| Answer to: Best year for Charger/challengers? | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | Glen_stet | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| To actually provide some useful info, here's where you can research problem areas, recalls and TSBs quickly: There are definitely some years you should avoid. | |||||
| 2013 Dodge Charger SE Overheating | 21Relevance | 10 months ago | Meruthecharger | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 2013 dodge charger SE 87k miles 3.6 Automatic Transmission (no codes, related to the overheating) Started overheating Thursday afternoon, I had replaced the thermostat in February, Thursday afternoon, as I was driving down the road I live on, the car overheated, oil looked fine, not milky, fans came on, and turning on the heater full blast didn't help much. | |||||
| Most stolen cars: 2020-2022 model years | 34Relevance | 3 years ago | Whatchamacallit | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... made the list - in bold. 1. dodge charger Hellcat 2. dodge charger HEMI 3. Infiniti Q50 4. dodge Challenger 5. Land Rover Range Rover 4WD 6. Kia Sportage 7. Land Rover Range Rover Sport 4WD 8. Kia Sportage 4WD 9. Honda CR-V 4WD 10. BMW X6 4WD 11. Kia Rio 12. Kia Forte 13. Ford F-350 SuperCrew 4WD 14. BMW X7 4WD 15. Ford F-250 SuperCrew 4WD 16. Honda Accord 17. Ram 3500 crew cab long-wheelbase 4WD 18. Infiniti Q50 4WD 19. Nissan Maxima 20. Honda CR-V Source: | |||||
| Do not like turbochargers. | 32Relevance | 12 months ago | MrSMJ | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Dear Scotty, I’ve watched your channel for a while and I just want to thank you for the tips in the end. They’ve been really helpful. You are the new Click and Clack and you know who they were. Just wanna make a comment about turbochargers. I understand how you hate turbochargers, technically, I agree. However I would like to throw in a couple observations. There are alot technologies in cars today that came from racing. Disc brakes. Seat belts. Fuel injection. Even some old Corvettes had mechanical fuel injection, which I can’t understand how that worked anyway. But fuel injection is well known in racing circles. You don’t see race cars equipped with turbo chargers fail. So the question is, I’m not really upset at turbo charging per se. I’m upset at these dumb school automotive engineers that don’t know squat about Racing and how to keep the pressure that turbo charging creates inside an engine. You can engineer that. My job presently is a career coach at a community college. I coach all the welding diesel auto and collision students and help them through their journey through their 2yr programs. I also watch and visit where they work. I cannot tell you how many times I have visited my students at dealerships and they are taking apart turbo chargers, some on two-year-old Jaguars. One student had a two year old Explorer with a turbo charged 4cyl Ford and he was pulling out the turbo charger because it had failed in 122,000 miles. Yes that was a lot of mileage for a two year old Explorer. It belonged to a company, but nevertheless that thing failed and it cost $700 for the turbo charger and over $2000 to put it in. That’s just after two years!! I have talked with community college Automotive instructors who have worked at Lexus They were changing out the turbo chargers there also.. Lexuses were blowing out the pan seal because of the excessive pressure. So to me, I understand what you say, but there is to me a huge disconnect between proper turbo charger, engineering, and cars that are on the road today. Just putting in a turbo charger in a car mass production daily driver car, is not proper engineering. Racing engineers understand how to seal an engine that has a turbo charger in it. They know how to do that. I don’t know these engineers are not getting to money not getting the money to properly design a turbo charge engine I don’t care what manufacturer it is I’m not sure about that but that’s why I’m writing the question is there so just wonderingif you might have any insight on that, thanks | |||||