Notifications
Clear all
Search result for: Honda CVT
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Answer to: Toyota Avensis, 1,8 VVT-i T3 stc. E-CVT | 15Relevance | 5 years ago | Dan | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Too much mileage, too old for a hybrid (e-CVT is only for hybrids) - you just never know how much life it has left in it. just get a petrol 1.6L ZR-series engine Corolla (not MMT, only Conventional auto or manual) - those are extremely well built. E-CVT is basically very similar to what an electric bike has. The only difference is that instead of the chain (on a CVT it’s a belt) going from one cog to another - the cog (it’s actually a pair of cones) it self changes size - same principal different design. E-CVTs also have an electric motor-generator built into them. | |||||
| Answer to: Cvt transmission | 18Relevance | 5 years ago | Dan | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Look, CVTs are not meant for speed, on Mopeds are Priuses they are alright - but with 330 NM - 370 NM on a metal belt stretched between two cones? things are sure to go wrong. Generally speaking, a CVT can be faster - but not for a long time, if you drive it hard, it will fail. Generally CVTs require you to rethink how you drive to try and have as little internal slip as possible, like honestly - that CVT is the main reason why I would never advice anyone to even think about a Maxima, it's just such a shame they don't offer it with a regular manual or Nissans's alright 7 speed conventional automatics. As far as CVT technology, what I'm actually excited to see is a teardown of Subaru's "Performance CVT", have they gone the same path as Mitsubishi has with the EvoX - by giving it a weird and disposable automatic transmission, or will we see some real technological progress? | |||||
| 2014 Subaru Forester Upper Oil Pan Leak, "Lifetime" CVT Oil, and CV Joints | 18Relevance | 5 years ago | Breakdown | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| NHSTA issued service bulletin 02-166-17R outlining the issue and subsequent design changes. Don't know what that means for us at this point. We are at 93K. The warranty extension for the oil consumption issue may not cover this, as that was caused by poorly engineered piston rings, if memory serves. What this event tells me is that no one should buy a Subaru, unless they have money to burn. To "fix" this leaking upper engine oil pan, the entire engine has to be removed, and cam and valve covers are also resealed at this opportunity. It is $3,000 dollars for a leaking oil pan sealed with silicone, rather than a gasket, because the machines assembling Subaru engines can manage a bead of silicone, but not placing a physical fiber gasket. If I had not caught the dealer over-filling the oil for the consumption test a few years back, that would have ran $5,000 once the regular warranty expired. As it happened, I caught them, and made them remove the excess oil, that the car failed the consumption test and repairs were made under warranty. That was just below 30K miles. The lower oil pan seal failed around 60K miles, and was $500 or so in repairs. This upper oil pan is another level, entirely. Everyone's so focused on the oil consumption issue, and how Subaru has "resolved" it, that no attention is being paid to these critical oil leaks, which can be financially devastating. Scotty has mentioned the oil consumption, and given a nod to Subaru for fixing it, but never mentioned these oil pan leaks, which seem to be extremely common. My Subaru technician suggested just keeping an eye on the oil level, and adding as necessary, because of the cost and age of the vehicle. We aren't seeing low oil level warnings between changes, which we are always punctual about. I may take it to an independent shop, to check for the possibility that the leak is from the valve covers, which may loosen over time (the dealer technician didn't mention this happening). He could not tell me if the repairs would entail additional machining or replacement of existing parts with new designs. I cannot justify dropping $3,000 if this could start leaking again in another year or two. As an aside, I had the CVT oil replaced, because of Scotty's videos, explaining the "lifetime" CVT oil shenanigans. But it was not just the CVT oil, but also the differentials that were serviced, too, pumping that part of our bill to $560. I've never had a regular transmission service cost anything like that before! Do the differentials need to be serviced at the same time, or was it bill padding? By the way, at 30K, another dealer tech did tell me CVT oil did not need to be replaced, because it was "good for the life of the transmission." I believed that for years. The CV joints go out on these things around 100K miles, costing $1,100 at a dealer. Are there after market parts available for less, or are these Subaru exclusive? If you made it this far, thanks for reading! {black}:cool: | |||||
| RE: Should I change my CVT fluid | 18Relevance | 5 years ago | Snake | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Thanks you for the answer DayWalker. I want to make sure I do things right because I want to keep my car as long as possible. First of all, I am not a big fan of CVT transmissions but now a days that's pretty much everywhere, I know CVT trans are very delicate and you need to take care, that's why I cheked the manual to look at the maintenance schedule for transmissions and the manual itself show no change of trans fluid is required. I know that's bs because you can't drive a transmission for 200k plus miles with the same fluid, especially CVT. So that's why I ask, if the dealer doesn't provide maintenance to the CVT, can I do it myself without affecting my warranty, and is it ok if I use Castrol or valvoline trans fluid that claim to work for trans requiring SP-CVT1? I am asking because the price for a single quart of that parricular fluid at the dealer is a scam. | |||||
| RE: Is my CVT transmission shuddering? | 15Relevance | 5 years ago | Dan | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| @Doc Nope, not really… The best one IMO is the old Prius CVT. not because the CVT is good - but cause the hybrid system helps to avoid causing any wear to the gearbox, and as a bonus the petrol engine made only about 75hp. (It avoids causing wear by using the electric motor for accelerations from a standstill, low speed driving, and most other driving cases that are known to wear out CVT transmissions) - But I still recommend to avoid CVTs - just get a regular conventional automatic with 4-6 gears (maybe 8 on specific models). | |||||
| Answer to: 21017 Nissan Sentra CVT | 15Relevance | 5 years ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| It's amusing that according to that link Nissan claims they developed "the first CVT for passenger cars" in 2002. The Subaru Justy offered a CVT in 1987. Probably the first modern (postwar) automotive CVT was the DAF Variomatic, introduced in the DAF 600 in 1958. A characteristic of the Variomatic was that it could run as fast in reverse as fast as it could forward. Because of this feature DAF backwards racing was born. | |||||
| Nissan Altima with 2nd CVT. Should I change fluid? | 15Relevance | 5 years ago | fastlane5 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Before being educated by Scotty, I bought a 2015 Nissan Altima SV with 185k (from a private party). It has a CVT transmission. The previous owner replaced the CVT at 110K. In going through the records, there is no history of him having changed the fluid on the new CVT. Should I change the fluid or is better just to leave it alone? It has approximately 80k on the new tranny. It has no codes and is giving me no problems. From my research, Scotty says to leave the fluid alone at a certain point or it could cause more problems. Am I better off changing the fluid or leaving it as is? | |||||
| Answer to: CVT rattling noises? | 18Relevance | 6 years ago | Dan | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Change the CVT fluid as fast as possible - maybe you can still save it! At these kinds of mileages it's best to change it every 15k miles at most, clean oil is super important in a CVT. ( a VERY simplified explanation of why clean CVT oil is critical)These transmissions are a metal belt going between two rollers , just a little bit of friction can outright destroy it. Unlike a dual clutch where the power is transferred through metal gears and oil is mostly used to lube up the bearings or cool down the friction, On a CVT the entire power transfer is NOT done with a solid mechanical link is depended on oil to moderate the friction to be a set correct value- so that the belt and pulleys ("cones") have enough friction to transfer power but not enough to eat away the metal parts. IF this friction isn't correct because of low oil causing belts to not have enough friction and causing the belts to slip (metal rubbing on metal and ruining the tyranny),Or because old dirty oil there's too much friction and the metal parts get turned into dust remember the good old days where all cars were 4 speed automatics and could go 300k miles easily and had clear indicators of oil wear? I really miss it when it was all simple... If it wasn't changes for 50-60k miles there's a chance that there is a lot of wear inside your tranny. I'd advise you to consider replacing this car with a better built car OR taking it into a tranny shop as from your distinction it seems you a new belt (Unlike Toyota, on Nissan Cones usually don't get destroyed), a new pump and an inspection of all the other parts - This will NOT be a cheap or fast fix. | |||||
| Answer to: Toyota eCVT vs CVT | 18Relevance | 6 years ago | Kerem | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Something I found on the internet: "CVTs take a different approach to managing rpm. Instead of gears, the most common CVTs use a metal belt or chain running between two pulleys. These pulleys are designed to spread open or squeeze closed under hydraulic pressure, forcing the belt or chain to ride higher or lower in them. The advantage of this system is the vehicle’s computer can quickly and continuously adjust the pulleys to whatever ratio is required for peak efficiency because it isn’t physically limited by gears. When driving a CVT-equipped vehicle the driver pushes on the gas pedal and the CVT adjusts to keep the engine at its most efficient rpm through the entire acceleration process. There are no bumps or rpm increases felt by the driver. This is even true when climbing a grade. The engine stays at its most efficient rpm and the CVT adjusts to allow the car to get over the hill. The eCVT found on the Toyota Prius and other hybrids differs from CVTs found in other vehicles, such as the 2013 Nissan Altima or 2012 Scion iQ, because it does not use a belt or chain connected to a pair of variable pulleys. Instead, an eCVT uses electric motor/ generators to control the speeds of planetary gearset components. This allows the eCVT to continuously change the gear ratio, keeping the engine’s rpm in the sweet spot. Just like when driving other CVT-equipped vehicles, drivers of vehicles with eCVTs don’t feel the step change common to traditional automatic transmissions, yet the mechanisms (planetary gears) to achieve acceleration are largely the same." | |||||
| Answer to: Lexus IS250 vs Toyota Corolla vs Honda Accord | 18Relevance | 5 years ago | Whatchamacallit | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... and that can get annoying fast. The Honda Accord EX is the 2.4L I4 and that model year was part of the 2008-2012 susceptible to oil burning, which was only pronounced if the previous owner did not religiously change the oil every 3,000-5,000 miles. And here you are saying it had previous owners, which is scary because you don’t know how it was taken care of. See my past write up below on that issue: it’s a shame too because the EX came with a manual transmission as standard so a 4 cylinder with manual would be ideal for longevity: Finally, the Coro ... | |||||
| Answer to: How bad are CVT transmissions? | 15Relevance | 5 years ago | jebrim | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| jeep liberty have JATCO CVT. i mean if you could get anything decent id sell if not change CVT fluid every 30k religously with proper fluid. do not flush only drain and fill if not done before do it 3 times now, 1st time drive it, next gas fill up again and once more. dirty fluid/friction is the CVT worst nightmare | |||||
| Fix CVT leak or keep refilling Nissan Altima | 15Relevance | 6 years ago | ilde_branch | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a Nissan Altima 2007 Sedan CVT with 132k km, everything works ok but I notice it has a leak around the seals for the CVT transmission, it leaks about 1 quart every month and a half or so and only when parked and hot, I went to a transmission shop and they diagnosed it was the seals and it would take about 400 usd to fix it, should I save up and save it or just keep refilling the CVT transmission until the leak worsens ? Thanks in advance for the help | |||||
| Answer to: CVT transmission | 15Relevance | 6 years ago | Kerem | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Your mechanic friend is correct. A CVT is basically an automatic transmission with 0 gears (sometime 1 launch gear) and infinite ratios. In 99% of scenarios a CVT will not last as long as a manual transmission or even a torque converter automatic. Here are Scotty's videos on it: You might also want to just look up "What is a CVT transmission" on google. | |||||
| Answer to: 2016 CR-V CVT or Regular Transmission Version? | 18Relevance | 4 years ago | Whatchamacallit | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| However the 2016 comes in both CVT or the regular transmission for the engine. Unless I am missing something, all trim levels came standard with CVT for that model year, at least in North America. Where does it say it came with regular automatic transmission? I would stay away from a used CRV with a CVT transmission if the owner has not changed the transmission fluid every 30,000 miles. If you find one with over 100,000 miles and fluid never changed, walk away. | |||||
| Answer to: Civic CVT vs Civic AT !? | 18Relevance | 5 years ago | Dan | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... after trying to get out of being stuck And form my understating of things, bumps will also cause internal slippage. Also Honda has admitted that a lot of their CVTs aren't well built, as new as 2020 - I wouldn't say they "perfected" them. And there's plenty more extensions and service bulletins on them. Honda ATs aren't the greatest out there, and I'd just get a Mazda3 3rd gen or a Corolla E150 (international versions) - but the older ATs aren't terrible and at only 110,000km (about 70k miles), it most likely still can last for a very lon ... | |||||