Just bought a 2002 Honda Civic EX 1.7l from a mechanic.
The camshaft sensor code kept throwing shortly after driving. Scanned it and did see two codes related to the cam sensor. Here they are. The mechanic replaced it for me, he cleared the code. Code came back. After 3000rpms it starts to sputter and loose power. But only after 3000rpms. Other than that runs fine.
P0341 and P0340 is the codes that I first detected
Now only P0341 is showing not the other one
So the starter does seem to be acting up. He told me it's been bad for like two years. Sometimes won't start or even crank but if you try it a couple more times it eventually starts. Idk if that would have anything to do with the issue I'm having. Kinda frustrating.
2002 Honda Civic EX 1.7L
155,000 miles
Try the troubleshooting here:
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0340
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0341
But you could have a worn timing belt/chain
You will notice it says that extended cranking can trigger P0341
Mechanic said timing belt looks good
I would check the starter itself, the relay and fuses.
Could it be the crank shaft sensor, it's not throwing codes for it but I looked online and has same symptoms of a bad one won't go past 3500rpm sometimes it will but mostly won't. Starter is good, had O'Riley check it.
I would check that as well for good measure.
Like @mountainmanjoe said, it might be the timing belt.
Yours is an interference engine with a timing belt, with a replacement interval of 110,000 miles. If it’s never been changed, you’re overdue for a new timing belt kit.
Don’t delay -
https://www.autopadre.com/belt-or-chain/honda-civic
Ok had mechanic who sold me car replace both camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor. It's still throwing codes p0340 and p0341. He had replaced the parts and cleared the codes and it let me get past 3500 RPMs when I first test drove it but shortly afterwards starting acting up again. It also sometimes doesn't crank and have to try sometimes multiple times to get it to start, starter is good. I thought the issue was the crankshaft sensor. But isn't
I know you said, he said the belt ‘looks’ fine. But if that belt snaps, it’s good bye engine. You didn’t say if the belt was ever replaced in schedule. If it isn’t, it could well be the reason for the codes. Are the connectors and wiring to the sensor, good?
I removed the ac fuse and relay. The codes have not come back and I can now go above 3500rpms without an issue.
Still have trouble starting it. Doesn't always start, I will turn key nothing at all happens and often have to try couple to few more times and then starts fine.
Are the connections at the battery terminal snug? If you hotwire the starter, does it crank immediately?
Did you hear any strange noises with the AC running earlier? Was the cooling affected at all?
Is it safe to drive with the cam sensor codes still going? Mechanic may had driven it like this for two years. Could the actually camshaft be damaged? Can I drive like this for a while without ant serious damage? It has a hard time starting half the time, sometimes try to start and you hear nothing just gotta keep trying. Runs a lol rough sometimes but overall sounds ok. Won't go past 3500 rpms as well..
Mechanic bought I paid 1450 for it , he offered to give me $900 back and he keep $500
FYI had both sensors replaced. Timing belt looks fine, he said had no cracks it was ok.
Could be faulty sensor wiring insulation or the connector between the sensor and the ECU. Could be just this sensor wire or cable (acting as an antenna) receiving external interference from some external device - radio, or wifi transmitter, or phone charger, etc. At low RPM frequencies, the ECU might be still able to distinguish between real sensor output signals and interferences, while as you get over 3500 rpm it becomes no more possible. Possible fix for interference-related issues: add a screen to the sensor wire / cable, and connect one side of this screen to the ground (preferably to the ECU ground).
Could also be the following (had it on my own car):
the replacement sensor came with two spacers of different thicknesses (the original sensor, which died completely, had none and was of a different mechanical design). No docs said which spacer to use, so I ended up using the wrong one, hence I installed the sensor too deeply, and it collided with the rotating part underneath. It did not get destroyed completely in that collision, but got deformed slightly, and this deformation caused wrong readings, which were still tolerable for the ECU at low RPMs, but severely hampered correct motor operations at over 3000 rpm or so. Remedy: another sensor replacement, this time using the correct spacer.
