hey Scotty I took your advice and ran a smoke test on my 2006 BMW 330xi but found no vacuum leaks! I have misfire on 4 and 6 but I figured it was because of there was a vacuum leak. I changed my spark plugs but nothing has changed the rough idke that shakes the car when I’m stopped and sometimes dies at a stop light. What would you suggest I do next?
2a82 code ..The vanos vvt solenoid is a part that has a high fail rate so you'll probably have to replace that. 29d0 code...Swapping cylinder 4 coil with a different cylinder will let you know if that has to be replaced. If you swap it with number 3 and the mis is on 3 you know that coil is bad.
2ef5 code..For the thermostat that code usually means a failed unit stuck open. You may have to replace that as well.
The thing I'm worried about is all these codes at one time. Thst misfire code can be thrown if ecu is failing. Couple that with the thermostat and vanos vvt that what I'm leaning towards.
Did all these codes happen over a short period of time. Is there any issues with drivability or electrical that you have noticed.
If all this this happened over a period of time it could just be a German car being a German car and random stuff going bad.
Can you explain what the 2a82 code is? I’ve tried to look it up but I’m not getting anything specific. Basically the info I’ve got it that it’s related to my oil filter housing but I don’t think that is right. No the codes didn’t all happen at once I’m pretty sure it’s mainly just a German car getting old. I’ve only owned the car for not even a month. The idle issue started about a week after I got the car. The only electrical issue I’ve had was replacing the battery but that was just a case of an old battery. I will have more info for you in the next day or 2. Im getting to a polling where I’m just probably going to take it to a mechanic because I really don’t know much about this stuff and I’m doing my best to fix and learn as I go but if the next few thing I try doesn’t work I don’t think I can keep going without worrying I will mess up this car I love! I really can’t thank you enough for helping me you have been a blessing! TY oh on a side not from where there was a misfire previously on 6 and 4 I did move swap 6 and 2 and 2 never had a misfire and so far 6 hasn’t had a misfire since I cleared the codes. The 4 coil was replaced at some point because it’s not the same as the other from my understanding it’s the newer type that are shorter but work just the same from everything I have seen. I am going to move it probably to 1 because getting out 3 is for some reason a pain! Not sure if this info helps but I’m trying to give you as much info as possible
Ok now I know what that code is for it’s the solenoid and now that I’ve seen what they are and what happens if that becomes a issue I believe that is most likely causing my rough idke and misfire! I don’t know that it’s something I can fix though I’m going to have to watch some videos out. I do look forward to you feedback before I move forward
I don't have my lap top with me but I believe the vanos solenoids are really easy to replace. It should be a single bolt for each and it's located directly in front of engine. You just have to remove the intake duct if I remember correctly. Once it's off you will see both of them in plain view. The top one is the intake and bottom is exhaust. You should be able to do it yourself. The misfire going away and not following after swapping them around could be there was a loose connection, corrosion wasn't fully seated properly.
When I get home I'll pull up the car and just double check its location and steps for replacing it.
Since the car is older there are many possibilities and you just have to narrow it down to the cause. German cars while nice are a pain when the get old, it's always something with them. If something is replaced but codes aren't cleared using a fully system scan tool or clearing that module the codes will remain in that module. German cars are weird like that. While it doesn't happen often it can throw a check engine light even tho nothing is wrong , they don't always clear on there own after so many drive cycles. A full system scan tool might be your best bet to help narrow it down. It will tell you what codes are stored in what part of car. Example I worked on a Mercedes where the fuel gauge didn't work. Both level sensors where replaced but still didn't work properly. Using a full system scan tool I noticed there was multiple codes for it but they really didn't show up in the rear sam like the should . They showed up in the pcm/bcm and front right sam which isn't really possible. That told me there had to be a wiring issue. Sure enough a wiring harness on the rear gateway which sends data from rear sam to ecu was loose. Since it was loose the data was being sent to wrong part of car and computer had no clue what to do with that info.
It may or may not help you out but I feel it's always good to have a scan tool with these features. I actually have a Zurich 13s which I keep in my sisters car and I like it a lot. It has full system ( module) scan feature along with OEM and generic codes. It also has live data battery/. It cost around 175 ish , if on sale and with coupons 160.00. if you don't want to spend the money maybe take it to a shop and have them do a full diagnosis on the car. A German car mechanic would be best but they usually charge more. Your standard shop can do it but they usually aren't that knowledgeable with German cars.
How many miles?
What's the milage. You said misfire on 4 and 6, what codes are there . Chances are you have bad coils. It not uncommon for them to fail especially since they are probably the originals. So I would start at the coils You can either confirm it by testing them or just buy part and hope for the best. Judge the cars age and they are original I would just replace them all especially if your keeping the car .Just note if you replace them make sure you get the proper ones and they are installed properly. These can cause a vacuum effect when installing making feel like they are seated all the way when there not. So double check there bottom out. There appears to be a couple different types while looking identical, so verify the parts number on coil in car to OEM/interchangeable number on new part
168k miles
So 168k, the coils are a strong possibility. If not that here is a list of other common causes. Dirty throttle body/butterfly, dirty/ failing maf sensor, carbon build up on valves, timing chain tensioner , guides, chain it's self, cam/ crank position sensor, O2 sensors, catalytic converter, vacuum leak, bad gasket/seals manifold, throttle body,. If it feels like a misfire but there isn't any drivability issues or codes it can just be bad mounts.
Do you have a check engine light if yes what are the codes. What are your fuel trims for each bank stft and ltft. You need to provide as much information as possible so we can help diagnose your vehicle.
These are the codes I have 2a82 Vanis Inlet
29d0 combustion misfire cylinder 4
2ef5 characteristic field thermostat actuator
The check engine light was on but I had the codes cleared and then drove about 80 miles of different speed so some city and some highway and these are the code I get and the check engine light hasn’t came back on which I find confusing! The spark plugs have been replaced and I ordered a new air intake hose because even though I didn’t have any cracks or holes in it that part felt and looked terrible so I have that part coming in a few days. If I’m lucky that will fix the issue. I will also mention there is a small oil leaks very minor I doubt it’s the has to do with anything but I wanted to let you know. If you can help with this issue I will be so greatly appreciative because this is driving me insane! I will also add that other than the rough idke it drives great! Ty in advance for any help you provide
This is for replacing the vamos vvt solenoid.