Hi there, thanks in advance for answering this question, my mom has a 2014 Toyota Corolla (35,000 miles) she has owned since new. She only drives about once a week. Recently she went to turn on the car and it was completely dead (No lights or sounds). I was able to help her jump start the car and it drove fine, the next week same thing, so she took it to a Toyota dealership and they said the battery was bad, so they replaced that and the terminal connections. It was fine for 1 week after that, but the second week same thing it’s completely dead. Now it won’t even jump start, we have to connect a battery charger to get it to start, 1 week it started after half an hour and the next after 2 mins, once it’s started, it runs and drives fine. I spoke with the dealer that “fixed” it and they said it may be the cars computer needs an upgrade, what do you folks think?
Hey Jackofall & Geriscan, many thanks again for the suggestions. Just to update after watching what Scotty recommends I ordered a "Innova CarScan Pro 5410 for my mom. The alternator test said that's good (13.84V) but the battery test said "battery: bad". After running a full system scan the only code was "B1507 (Open in Turn Signal Circuit)." Is that code likely whats causing the previously described issue of the battery constantly being dead after sitting for a couple days? The other question I would have since the battery is bad but the Toyota dealership installed it only a couple weeks ago do they need to give her a new one free or can they refuse to, saying that the code problem made the new battery bad? Thanks for helping!
Hi there, thanks again for the previous tips and suggestions. Since my last update, I went ahead and replaced all the turn signal bulbs and erased the previously mentioned B1507 code and it has not returned, so the car currently shows no codes when scanned.
I followed Scotty Kilmer's parasitic draw test video and the multi-meter showed a -.141A draw after a while of the car being turned off. When I pulled the "D/C CUT 30A" fuse it went down to -.048A, when plugged back in it went back up to -.141A. When I pulled the "ECU-B 10A" fuse it also went from -.141A down to -.050A. When I pulled both "D/C CUT 30A" & "ECU-B 10A" at the same time it did not go lower (-.048A).
When I pulled the "DOME 10A" fuse it went from -.141A down to -.083A. I left this fuse pulled out since my mother does not need to use the dome lights. So at this point the car has a -.083A draw. None of the other fuses have any effect on the draw.
Approximately what would be considered normal draw for a 2014 Toyota Corolla with a Toyota dealer installed (Installed at the time of purchase in 2013) alarm and remote engine starter? Also any advise on what the "D/C CUT" & ECU-B" fuses stand for would be appreciated. Lastly do you think it would be worth the time and cost for my mother to have a mechanic examine those to try get the car from the current -.083A to -.048A?
#1 - Nothing you can do would kill a battery in just 1 week
#2 - You didn't go to the dealer for a battery. You went there for a solution. That's on them for not diagnosing properly. The computer upgrade sounds like BS to me. I think you are entitled to a free replacement battery.
I don't think the turn signal is causing the problem.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B__DqK90IIc
Look at Scotty's video on dead short, bit I would look at night see if any inside lights are on, faulty door switch glove box trunk light staying on can kill battery. Easy fix, no codes? Seems like it should throw a code if computer is off. Alternator may not be charging also, free check at most auto parts store. But that WOULD throw a code. And it may be ecm, or other issues. Good luck if you track it down please post here, never to old to learn.
The overwhelming odds are that there's a parasitic draw on the battery, from a bad wire, ground, relay or connector. Tracing that is the work of a competent diagnostic mechanic, which are scarce at the dealership's service department. Eric O, at South Main Auto, shows you how it's done:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eGz9BRJ09Rw
Have the Toyota dealer check the battery. It's a de facto Interstate Battery with a 84 month warranty. You don't have to volunteer information about the B1507.
They should give you another battery.
Here's the definition of the code:
__
B1507 TOYOTA: The DTC is stored when the Combination Meter Assembly (meter circuit plate) detects an open in a Turn Signal Light Circuit, or a short in a Turn Signal Light Circuit or the Hazard Warning Light Circuit
____
And, yes, an open circuit is a parasitic draw. It won't leave the battery alone. (Hence, you should see high resistance on the circuit). There might a short in the wiring, a bad connector, or in the turn signal unit. Testing for power and ground will let you know where the problem is. And then, you can repair (for example, if there's a frayed or broken wire) or replace (if the turn signal itself is bad). Good luck!
An "open circuit" (extremely high resistance) is incomplete, therefore has no current. It is the exact opposite of a parasitic drain which has low resistance, and constantly draws current.
https://www.dummies.com/programming/electronics/components/closed-open-and-short-circuits/