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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Power window switches do not operate the correct windows | 24Relevance | 3 years ago | Hereknotthere | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Recently came into a 2002 Toyota Camry XLE with the 3.0L V6 engine (auto transmission) and 242K miles. The previous owner mentioned that the driver's window switches acted funny; I didn't think anything of it. But I have not been able to figure it out. The easiest way to describe the issue is that the driver's master switch seems to have some crossed wires: - driver's window goes up/down correctly (although the auto up feature does not work) - passenger: down on switch lowers passenger [correct], up on switch raises passenger rear [incorrect] - driver rear window: down on switch raises passenger [incorrect], up on switch raises driver rear [correct] - passenger rear: down on switch lowers passenger rear [correct], up on switch lowers driver rear [incorrect] One other item of note that I have discovered: the power windows remain operational even after the car has been turned off and sitting in my garage for days (operational by both driver's master switch and each respective individual window switch - these function normally). The sunroof does not remain operational, nor the radio. The odometer remains "on" i.e. readable. So far I have: 1. Tested all fuses, none blown 2. Replaced power window and accessory relays 3. Replaced driver's master window switch 4. Taken it to a local mechanic (ex-Toyota dealer mechanic) and his theory is that the cabin fuse/relay box needs to be replaced Anyone have an idea as to what could be causing such strange behavior? Thank you in advance! | |||||
| Answer to: 2014 Ford Edge Limited's Power Windows has stopped working. | 24Relevance | 3 years ago | jack62 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... see if you can operate the front passenger window from the switch on the front passenger door. Here's how those windows are wired. Notice where I put a Yellow Circle around the splice in the blue wire from the Power Windows Circuit Breaker. It splices off to the right in the diagram and provides direct power to the Front Passenger Door. If you can operate the Front Passenger Door window using the switch on the front passenger door then it's almost a sure bet that the blue wire is broken at the connector between the driver's door and the car body. But if ... | |||||
| Answer to: Using Blue Driver to completely test Prius hybrid system | 24Relevance | 5 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I just did a quick 30 second search, and apparently, "Dr. Prius" is the app to use, and it isn't compatible with blue driver. The website tells you which adapter to buy: | |||||
| Using Blue Driver to completely test Prius hybrid system | 24Relevance | 5 years ago | Ethnic101 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi: im looking at buying 1 of 2 Prius plugins ( not the 8.8 kWh Primes) but either a 2013 or 2015, they are the same generation . I’m hoping that this little jewel will stop me from having any of these cars tested (hybrid system) at the Toyota dealer when maybe I can do it all with this little jewel called blue driver. any Ideas Ted Thanks Scotty | |||||
| Blue driver code P0322 | 24Relevance | 5 years ago | Tj911p | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 2012 vw cc 2.0 How do i find out where the crank position sensor is located? I bought it as blue driver recommended crankshaft position sensor but i have no clue where the sensor plugs into. No luck all videos tell me its by the oil filter at bottom of car. But my cars filter is on top. But the videos was for a passat or jetta. Since i cant find a video of how to do it. Was wondering how i can get a picture to gui me where the part is located. Also wife is telling me to give up and give it to a professional. There is no rush to fix the car i work ... | |||||
| Blue Driver works good | 24Relevance | 5 years ago | Justme52 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Scotty I bought a blue driver from Amazon the thing seems to work good on my 2006 Chevrolet Silverado | |||||
| How to fix EGR code in my 2001 Chevy 2500 HD? | 22Relevance | 4 years ago | zzotto21 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... replaced EGR with an OEM part and after erasing the code(s), the Service Engine Light came back on and I got an EGR code. I have been driving around with the Service Engine Light ever since. For a few years in fact! Recently, I saw you recommended the blue driver Scan tool. I bought it. And I read the codes again and sure enough, he is throwing an EGR code. blue driver’s recommended fix is to replaced the EGR valve or the wiring harness. Well since I already changed the EGR valve, I do not want to do it again. I recently cleaned the plug going into ... | |||||
| Possible Camry hybrid transmission problem | 21Relevance | 2 years ago | SeatonBM | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Is this a transmission/PSD issue? Can it be fix, or is a transmission/PSD replacement in my future? Or is it nothing? (Camry hybrid) Does anyone else's car do this? Anything I can do to fix this or figure out why it is doing this? The TLDR is: I have a 2014 Toyota Camry XLE Hybrid. Recently I have noticed that when I take my foot off the gas (especially at highway speeds) the car sort of jerks when I let off the gas, and jerks again if I hit the gas a gain... It's hard to describe this accurately, jerk is sort of a harsh word - but it's like it doesn't shift smoothly, though being a CVT, I would almost liken the feeling like as if the CVT transmission "belt" were stretched out, or something, and had some play in it when I let my foot off the gas/re-engage the gas... It makes no noises, and other than this, it drives pretty normally. This primarily happens when I am trying to keep a speed or accelerating, then say a car ahead of me hits the brake or something, and I let off the gas, to coast, then hit the gas to maintain speed or accelerate if able. It doesn't always occur, but it primarily happens in such a situation. Especially if I am accelerating, then let off suddenly, or suddenly accelerate again... If I ease into letting off/on, it usually transitions somewhat smoothly. I thought maybe it's a transmission/engine mount, but... When I Rev the engine with the hood open with the car parked, the engine doesn't move, really at all. I won't lie, I do drive the car a little hard, hard acceleration, etc... But I also baby the car in other ways, for example I always come to a complete stop before shifting between reverse and drive, I usually even avoid go from neutral to any gear if the car is in motion (like leaving a car wash, I try to brake to a stop before shifting). I avoid bumps, or take them slow, etc. One key thing that happened recently, is that I replaced the CV axle assemblies and transmission fluid. I only mention this because I bought the fluid and axles from my local Toyota dealership, but they sold me a 26 spline driver side axle... Long story as to how I came to realizing this - let's just say I had to replace both the driver axle and front wheel bearing/hub twice because the original axle/hub was a 30 spline (and the passenger side axle/hub both original and replacement had 30 splines, why would the driver side be 26 splines if the passenger side is 30 splines, and the driver side hub was 30 splines originally). I replaced the driver side axle with the 26 spline axle Toyota sold me unaware it was not 30 spline axle, where the replacement hub was a 30 spline hub... I came to this realization after getting about half a mile from my house on a test drive, without my cell phone, everything was great until it wasn't, the driver side axle started spinning freely inside the hub, tearing splines up and, and causing the axle nut that I torqued to 213ft/lbs to essentially spin freely (took about half a mile to loosen up I guess), cross threading it bad enough I had to cut it off... I pushed the car back home (after walking home, getting the wife and kid, and walking back to the car - and that is why you never test drive without a cell phone). I spoke to Toyota, they swear up and down that they sold me the correct part for my VIN#. I am still of the belief that isn't correct... But I bought another 26 spline axle and a 26 spline hub, pressed the new hub/bearing and installed the new axle, and everything seems generally good as new. It's possible this jerky feeling I am feeling has always been there, and now I am hyper sensitive to it after doing all this car work, but... I am just now taking notice of it anyways. But it feels like it has to be kind of hard on the transmission/PSD when it happens, over time. Additional question: Does it seem like time to prepare for a replacement transmission/PSD? Does the 2014 Toyota Camry XLE Hybrid share the same transmission/PSD as the Lexus ES300h? Both seem to use the same part # (30900-33030 or 33040 or 33053). Based on the part # alone, I'd say yes, but...Some places say no when I do a compatibility check with my car. And for that matter, does the Camry and ES300h use the same hybrid battery G9510-33050, I have been starting the prep/search for a good price for a new battery (from Toyota, no 3rd party), as I am probably on borrowed time with the original. Further information/History: I've owned the car since 2016, and roughly since 30,000 miles - my father bought the car certified used from the dealership around 28,000 miles, and then passed away shortly afterwards, and I essentially inherited the car... It now has over 183,000 miles (mostly highway), and for the most part, it's still going strong! Up until a little bit ago, it was mostly all original parts - but recently I've replaced (mostly doing my own repairs/maintenances): -Both CV axle assemblies (Toyota)-Passenger side CV bearing support bracket (DuraLast/AutoZone)-Both front knuckles (TRQ/A1-Auto)-All 4 wheel bearings and hub (fronts are SKF, rears unknown - a shop did those)-All 4 struts/springs (KYB)-All 4 sway bar links (Toyota)-Both front lower control arms (Toyota)-Both front tie rods (not sure brand, a shop did those)-Both front brake calipers (DuraLast/AutoZone)-All 4 wheel's ceramic brake pads and coated rotors (Wagner)-Front driver speed sensor (DuraLast/AutoZone)-12 Volt battery (Toyota)-Air conditioner blower fan (Um... RockAuto, forget brand)-Engine radiator/AC condenser cooling fans (TYC)-All 4 spark plugs (Denso)-All 4 TPMS sensors (Denso) And other miscellaneous stuff like fog and headlight light bulbs, tires, etc. I've also had the wheel balance and alignment checked recently. I have also religiously performed oil changes with new crush washers and Toyota oil filters, engine air filter, cabin air filters, all maintenances at scheduled intervals (oil changes were done every 10,000 miles when the car was mostly a highway car - now I do oil every 5,000 miles as I don't drive nearly as much on the highway as I use to). the transmission fluid has also been replaced first around 100,000 miles (mostly highway miles), and it was replaced again about 75,000 miles later (technically it was replaced a 3rd time about 6,000 miles afterwards, sort of by accident - I replaced the CV axles, lost some fluid, went to top the fluid off and mindlessly opened the drain plug - so I filled it up with all new fluid), always using Toyota ATF-WS transmission fluid, and replaced crush washers. the coolant (both inverter and engine) and brake fluid also have been routinely changed, and the hybrid filter routinely cleaned. Spark plugs were replaced at 125,000 miles. This car is religiously maintained! And I use proper torque specs/torque wrench when tightening bolts/screws! And the car is essentially all stock, no mods. Unrelated but interesting side note: It was rather surprising to me when my engine radiator/AC condenser cooling fans failed. I learned of this issue when my AC quit blowing cold unless I was moving, but if I idled at a traffic light or parked, the AC would blow warm. Which naturally made me think the condenser was unable to radiate the heat from the compressor unless air was passing by it while moving. When parked, a fan moves air past the condenser, but because the fan failed, this wasn't occurring. To my surprise when I looked at the fan, neither the condenser nor engine radiator fan were working. My best theory is, unless they some how failed at the same time (unlikely) the engine radiator fan failed first, but went unnoticed because the engine never overheated, though further interesting is the fact that even when both fans failed, the engine still never overheated, probably because as I am moving, air passes through it - and when I am still, the engine kicks off and the car runs on the hybrid battery. The engine never overheated, and replacing both fans (an assembly) fixed my AC issue, it now blows cold all the time when on. Given I've literally replaced the AC blower fan, and the engine radiator and AC condenser fans by this point... Maybe I might want to consider getting a spare hybrid battery cooling fan on hand. Seems like fans have not been this car's point of focus in quality. | |||||
| Answer to: Safety? What Safety? | 21Relevance | 2 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| organisation ... whatever. It doesn't change anything. The data was analyzed by S&P Global, by the way, who is a for-profit company. That's exactly where I went for the data . And the only source of summary data I could find, unless you want to spend months compiling it from the NHTSA database. The first think you see: Nope. This is wrong. It's the worst normal size car. and on a scale from zero to Mitsubishi soda can, it's bad. It's a micro car. Of course it's unsafe. I don't consider it a normal car. You wouldn't buy one. Size is the biggest safety factor (and IIHS report this) Despite manufacturers’ efforts to make them safer, the smallest late-model cars remain the most dangerous, according to the most recent IIHS study of driver death rates. Small cars and minicars accounted for 15 of the 20 models with the highest death rates for model year 2017 ... “Smaller vehicles offer less protection for the driver in crashes, and their lighter mass means that they take the brunt of collisions with larger vehicles,” says Joe Nolan, IIHS senior vice president of vehicle research. And yet, IIHS still rated those death traps good overall ... 3rd worst car in its class ... yes it is. Overall , still in the worst 20 And it received IIH's top award, which is the point you're avoiding. (also it's the 5th worst car for killing other drivers) OK. And... ? The Civic is a small car by the way. which further illustrates my point that these ratings are useless. You are wrong. 5th worst in it's class. AND, you should add it together with the hybrid because it's the same body. (bringing it to 67, tied 4th with Fusion) Nope. This is wrong too. I stand corrected. I misread the data. It came in 3rd worst in IIHS safety testing. It's #4 in death rates. But wait ... does that make me wrong ... no. In fact if you keep reading there's ANOTHER Aveo in the list! So with another 58, that brings the rate up to 157, making it the WORST car. Another mini car ... shocking And all of this is in stark contrast to the Euro testing, which was my point, that you again ignored. Whether they "expire" it or not after the fact doesn't matter. Ratings are ratings. Nope. This is wrong too. Again, 7th worst in IIHS safety testing. 3rd worst death rate in it's class and unsurprisingly, 2nd worst in class in 2020 (15th overall) When you consider how many models there are, this car does not do well. 5/5 stars 👍 I think you need to see the bigger picture. Not wrong. You just focus on insignificant details and completely miss the point. again ... what results? They're missing for most cars. And from what I've seen, they're terribly unreliable. METHOD: " Logistic regression was used to estimate the association between crash test measurements and death risk, controlling for driver and vehicle information." regression = guessing so overall, they kind of get it right, maybe. Can you trust individual ratings for vehicles ... it doesn't look that way to me. Oh and look ... the study was funded by the IIHS, so they are congratulating themselves. Nice. At least show me independent research. A paper is a just an argument, like you're making now. Not proof. There's no shortage of bad papers. | |||||
| Answer to: 2012 Honda Accord coupe high beams not coming on. | 21Relevance | 3 years ago | jack62 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| The high beam circuit doesn't use mechanical relays. It uses IPDs (Intelligent Power Devices) soldered onto the circuit boards of the driver's side MICU ((inside the driver side underdash fuse box)) (((for the driver's side high beam headlight))) and the passenger side MICU ((inside the passenger side underdash fuse box)) (((for the passenger side high beam headlight))). System Description: The driver's Side looks like this. I highlighted Power in Red and Ground in Green. The driver's side MICU communicates with the Passenger side MICU over the B-CAN (communication) bus (( I didn't highlight it but it's those dotted lines on the diagram)) . Headlight switch ON, Ground is provided to terminal 8 of the driver Side MICU. High Beams are selected and Ground is provided to terminal 22 of the driver Side MICU. Then, like the description says, both MICUs energize the individual High Beam circuits through their individual High Beam IPDs. So getting back to that first image I posted comparing Mechanical Relays to IPDs. The last line of text is important. "....but protection as well by detecting overcurrent" It detects overcurrent really well. And when it does the MICU de-energizes the circuit to protect it AND sets a code. The code will have a "B" prefix (Body code). And with these lighting circuits, even after you fix the problem, as long as the code(s) remain, the MICU won't energize the circuit until the code is erased. Maybe before you break out the test light and start checking the Power on the fuse tabs, MICU terminals, and high beam headlights and the Grounds on the Combination switch, MICU terminals, and high beam headlights, grab a scanner that can read and erase body codes on your Accord and see if there's any set. | |||||
| Answer to: 02 4Runner Cylinder 1 Misfire | 21Relevance | 4 years ago | kesterpaul62 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Absolutely check that. intake air leak, bad fuel pressure. Do a wet and dry compression test on cylinder 1. If cylinder 1 has no compression, then the motor needs replacement. | |||||
| Answer to: Establishing Value of Totaled Car | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | Mark-Snodgrass | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Sorry to hear about your totaled car. I’ve learned recently from Scotty that blue Book is not a good tool for determining value if you are on the buying end, because blue Book values can be inflated. Nevertheless, many still use blue Book. Maybe it works to your advantage to use blue Book value as a starting point if you have not already. Good luck | |||||
| VW TDI blue def not working, won't start | 20Relevance | 2 years ago | Michelle1972 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 2014 Volkswagen Passat TDI SE 220,000 miles blue def system not working properly. Filled blue def completely full and the car still shows not full and will not start. Had mechanic put computer and reset so I could start the car. But I only have 50 miles before the car will not start again. Please help! Thank you for all your help in advance! | |||||
| Answer to: 5.7 Hemi V8 puff of blue smoke out of tailpipe on cold start | 20Relevance | 2 years ago | Glen_stet | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| White smoke on startup is condensation, so blue is most likely oil. When your catalytic converter heats up, it burns the oil, so there's no blue smoke then. Are you using oil between oil changes? Fortunately, there's a pretty cheap and easy test to see the condition of your rings and pistons - do a compression check dry, then put in an ounce of oil and do the compression test then. If there is substantial difference, you have worn rings. Here's Scotty demonstrating it | |||||
| Answer to: Power window switches do not operate the correct windows | 21Relevance | 3 years ago | jack62 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| It is a "head scratcher" and it's a pretty cool one. This is one of those scenarios where, “Once you have eliminated the impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.” And the only conclusion is that somebody got into this harness before and spliced 3 of those wires wrong. Maybe there were some broken wires in the door to body flexible conduit or somewhere else. You have UP and DOWN functions on ALL of those windows from the master switches on the driver's door panel. That confirms the integrity of the wiring from the master switch to the individual window switches. The individual windows function correctly at their individual window switches. That confirms that they're all getting Grounds on both wires from their master switches when their master switches are in the "at rest" positions (again, confirms no broken or shorted wires). There's 3 wires just going to the wrong places (Great job on the troubleshooting and explaining what's happening). 1) The Front Passenger Window: a) The wire currently connected to the Front Passenger UP master switch needs to be cut and that UP switch wire needs to be spliced to the wire currently connected to the driver Rear Down master switch. 2) The Rear Passenger Window: a) The wire currently connected to the Passenger Rear UP master switch needs to be cut and that UP switch wire needs to be spliced to the wire you just cut away (in step 1a) from the Passenger UP switch 3) The Rear driver Window: a) The wire connected to the driver Rear DOWN master switch was already cut (in step 1a) so that DOWN switch wire needs to be spliced to the wire you just cut away (in step 2a) from the Passenger Rear Up switch. Now all the wires are connected correctly and the windows should work right from the driver's door master switches. Regarding the auto up feature, it needs to be reset after disconnecting the battery or changing the master switch. You can look up the procedure on the internet. It's something like close the window to the halfway position and release the switch. Then hold the UP switch for 5 seconds after the window closes all the way. Regarding why the Power Window Relay is staying energized by the Multiplex (body ECU/Cabin fuse box). In this system all the Multiplex does is to energize the Power Windows Relay (it isn't involved in the actual control of the windows) Even though the circuit description says the "operate with Key Off" feature should timeout after 23 seconds OR until it gets a signal from the driver's door courtesy light switch (whichever comes 1st), I've seen these type of circuits totally reliant on that "door ajar" switch signal. (Usually in circuits using a RAP relay) but it's the same deal as here. So before you condemn the multiplex, check to see if it's getting the open/closed signals from the driver's door courtesy light switch because like I say, someone's been into this harness before. | |||||